Last
updated 05 April 2008
Thassos
My correspondent and his wife have been going
to Greek Islands for about ten years and naturist beaches for the last three
or four. Their 1996 holiday was on Thassos in the North Aegean. Thassos is
a half hour ferry ride from the mainland where the charter flights come into
Kavala airport. They stayed in a self-catering apartment just to the west
of Thassos town and had a car to get about in. Previous reading of the Naturist
Guide to Europe (and Phil Vallack) had suggested several suitable beaches
around the island.
For the "non-beach" times there
are plenty of other interesting places to visit and Thassos town provides
an interesting place to eat in the evenings. Where you stay depends on your
priorities and on transport.
Thassos island has an excellent coastal
road and the round trip is 96 km. There are few roads going into the centre
and none that go across. It is possible to drive all the way round in about
2.5 hours. This itself is a problem from the point of view of naturist beaches,
because the coast road overlooks most of the beaches so privacy is a little
difficult to find. The north west coast is very rocky so opportunities there
look a bit limited.
Paradise Beach
Paradise Beach is approximately 23km from Thassos town via the coastal road
that circles the Island. Although not signposted itself there is a signpost for
the "Paradise Bar on the Beach" which is visible from the anticlockwise
direction (keep an eye in the rear view mirror if travelling clockwise). There
is space for a few cars by the main road (5-10mins walk)
The Captain receives many positive reports about this beach. Many
Barefooters find it a real paradise, with ratings of 90 or 95%. Sunbeds
are only on the right part of the beach (not nudist during July-August). The
left part of the beach gets very crowded (with no nudists) during July-August
and you feel uncomfortable (like a nudist on a textile beach). There is a
tavern. Another disadvantage is the poor access by car (but this is good for non
spoiling the beach). One contributor rated in 100% except during August,
when it drops to 30%.
There are two roads "dirt tracks" that lead down to the beach. From Golden
Beach follow the coast road for about 15 minutes and look for a blue sign on
your left "Paradise Beach". The first time by Barefoot reporters made the
journey they parked at the top of the hill in what they thought was the car park
and followed the track down to the beach. This led to a return trip to
fetch the jeep and park near the beach where there is a makeshift car park. By
the time our Barefooter had walked back up the hill and driven the jeep back,
his wife had staked their naturist claim on Paradise and was already soaking up
the rays.
The naturist end is definitely here, left as you look at the sea. The beach
extends to the right but becomes more and more textile the further you walk
towards the taverna. You then start to wonder if any woman here is going to
brave enough to remove their tops. Definitely not when we were there as we
passed this area regularly on our trips to the taverna for food, drink and being
entertained by the blond lady, probably the owner, who must be related to Basil
Fawlty. Don't ask for an omelette after 11.00 o'clock. Anyway, back at the
naturist end of the beach everything was very relaxed with English German and a
few Italians enjoying Euro naturism. My reporters came here every day after that
and although it did suffer from textile encroachment at weekends, no one
objected and everyone continued to enjoy are few precious weeks naked in the
sun. Paradise Beach is definitely recommended, but get there early during July
and August and set up camp and establish the naturist trend at the left hand
side of the beach.
The beach runs north-south (like the road), faces east across the sea and is
backed by hills on the west (which start to cast the beach into shadow during
the late afternoon).
Its real name is "makryammos koiniron" to separate from the other
Makryammos. Half a kilometre long, all sandy although very windy
sometimes. Half of the beach has umbrellas. That section is textile.
The other is mainly nudist (80-90%) during May and June and maybe the first half
of July. In July and August the percentage decreases to 20-30% and even
less during weekends. At its best, maybe the best CO beach in Thassos.
A real paradise. Nude walking and sunbathing accepted. Access very
easy by car (although be careful in some spots of the road). Taverna opens in
June until September and provides food and drinks at reasonable prices.
Initial impressions may be of a superb
beach but firmly "dressed"; but if you go a little further along that you
will realise that the other end of the beach is definitely CO. There is no
posted information on its official status; however a recent correspondent
tells the Captain that his holiday rep told them that Paradise beach was the
official naturist beach and was well known for it. There is good vehicular
access with a reasonable Taverna & ice cream vendor. Clean clear
water gently shelves out. Great fun in the waves if the wind is in the right
direction otherwise very placid. Naturists tend to stay at the northern
end (to the left as you look at the sea). The beach is generally quiet until
mid-day then gets very busy - up to 90% textiles!
Several of my correspondents have found the beach so satisfactory that they
did not do any further serious exploring in this respect. The sand is fine
and clean, there are beds and umbrellas for hire if you wish, the atmosphere
is sociable with a mix of Brits and other nationals. There is nothing in
the way of water sports so noisy jet-skis are rare. To complete the convenience
factors there is an excellent Taverna offering a wide range of good dishes.
(The roast goat was superb). These comments were sent to me by a correspondent
who visited in mid June, it may be different in the high season but we could
find little fault with this as a beach.
Paradise beach is easy to get to by
car or motorbike but it is possible by bus if you are not staying too far
away. It is on the east coast about 30 km by road from Pefkari but worth
the journey. If travelling from the south on a motor bike watch out for the
lethal wooden sign holder hanging out nearly invisibly at head height near
the end of the long straight through Astris. My correspondents nearly didn't survive to write
this!!! It seemed to have been moved their last day but it might be back!
The best base for Paradise would probably be Potamia (which we didn't visit
but heard was OK) which is not served by Airtours but is (we think) by Thompsons.

The only road down used to be at the northern end. The naturists
then tended to either use the small bits of sand between the rocks at the
northern end or to walk down the beach to the southern end. This road has
now been extensively eroded by rain water and should not be attempted
without a four wheel drive (on the basis of their last visit my
correspondent ignored the prominent sign at the West end of the beach,
used the old road and had a hair-raising time getting the car back up).
There is a new and quite reasonable unpaved road at the other end of
the beach leading to a good car park. There are also a bar, taverna and
toilets at this end. Recent reports suggest that the road at the taverna
end has now been partially tarmaced, but great care is still needed.
As the access has altered so the nude beach users have largely gone to the
other (northern) end, but now occupy a much larger proportion of the
beach. My contributor also saw a few naturists at the "old" end (though
they may have been just following old habits). Despite any divisions
between nude and textile sections, my correspondent did walk from one end
to the other to snorkel around the rocks at the southern end without
causing any outrage. An excellent beach.

A report from summer 2007 says that Paradise is easily the best: soft white sand, gently shelving, no weed,
no stones, no water sports and distinctly CO. Its still the best
beach on the island to go nude. It's a beautiful, calm sandy beach.
A lot of textile (3/4 of the beach) but still plenty of naturists too at
the left side of the beach facing the sea. There seems to be a very
calm and understanding atmosphere, about the part of the beach that is
naturist.
However the textile incursion continues and during the
high season the only real option on Paradise Beach is the rocky section at
the end. During the last week of August the sandy section appeared to be
completely textile and nude sunbathing was confined to the rocky area to
the left (facing the sea). Things improved during the first week of
September although Barefoot reporters noticed a lot of textile visitors to
the section.
You can't miss the beach since there's a huge sign
with "Paradise Beach" at the main road. The road from there leads
down to a huge parking line near the Taverna. The road has been
cemented at critical spots. From there you have to walk to the
naturist section - my reporters didn't spend time trying out the other way
down by car.
Unfortunately, my reports didn't recommend the
taverna - high prices, compared to prices in general on the Island, and
when your meal has arrived and you taste it - you start looking for salt,
pepper, whatever to give it some taste.
One point of note is that most of the local car hire companies are
requesting that you don't drive down the dirt tracks to the beach unless
you hire a 4WD/Jeep style car as they have had a few cars with damaged
undersides. There is however parking just off the main road at the top of
both tracks down to the beach and it only takes 10 mins to walk down and
shouldn't be a problem for anyone of reasonable fitness.
A number of reports from 2003 suggest that there is little, if any,
naturism in the other main beaches on the island and the reports that
follow should be read with that health warning in mind.
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Chryssi Amoudi
The centre section of Golden Beach
at Chryssi Amoudi was once very clothes optional but with an increase in
the British package trade brought about by Thomsons during the last five years
this has been virtually wiped out. It is still possible to sunbathe naked
in the narrow sand dunes but it is not comfortable, does not offer much privacy
and nude swimming is definitely out.
A report dating from September 1997
suggests no privacy at Chrissi Akti or Chrissi Amoudia (opposite ends of
the same cove). Above Chrissi Ammoydia there are tavernas and villas or rented
rooms and Chrissi Akti is actually the beach of the small village of Skala
Potamias ("harbour of potamia"). The beach in the centre of the cove (and
between the two aforementioned beaches) is 40 metres away from a dirt road
connecting the two named beaches and a few hotels-tavernas between the beach
and the dirt road. The whole stretch of the cove was 100% textile since even
the slightly more private part in the middle was walked by people transgressing
the whole stretch of the cove. Reports from 2003 suggest no improvement.
Aliki
Earlier reports suggested opportunities
for naturism at Aliki on the smaller beach if you get set up before
the textiles arrive; however this is directly overlooked by the road and more
recent reports suggest no naturist opportunities there. However my
contributor recommends the area of flat stones at the Roman marble quarry
at the end of the peninsula. He stripped off to paddle in the pools at the
quarry with no problem and the flat stones would be excellent for sunbathing
(but look out for sea urchins in the pools, as ever in Thassos - they are everywhere).
Aliki beach was extremely crowded in high season 2003 and no sign of
any naturism at all.
According to the Thomson Small and
Friendly brochure, naturists use the beach below Archangelos monastery a
few km further on. Very soon after the main Aliki beach one passes the Monastery on the left. Approximately 1km further along and at the bottom of a steep hill with a suicidal bend to the left, there is a steep dirt track off to the left. Follow along until it opens out to a flat parking area with several large olive trees affording parking shade for the car.
The Monastery can be seen high on the cliff to the left. The beach, of graded polished pebbles, enters the sea as a shallow slope. However there are submerged flat slippery rocks with some sea urchins which can prove hazardous. The area was very quiet, (late September 2001) and a change from the sand of Paradise Beach. My contributors sunbathed and swam nude on several days, only seeing the occasional couple in the distance and a couple of snorkelers. The prevailing wind does seem to be more intense here, but, when Paradise Beach is overcast by clouds spinning off the towering peaks at the rear of the beach, this is the place to head for. They always found the sun here. No problems encountered here either from the monks, whom they never saw, or from any other visitors. A word of warning, be careful when leaving the dirt track to join the road, as traffic comes down the hill at speed and can be invisible until one edges out for better vision.
Potos
There is one super little beach about
1.5 km South (East or anticlockwise) from Potos. There is a layby on
the road which often has a few cars or mopeds parked in it. It is small and
on two occasions my contributor found Greek families already there who politely
replied that they would rather he didn't go nude when asked, but on other
occasions it was mostly nudist or mixed. It appears to be one of those places
where the first party there gets to decide. Also 2 km East of Aliki there
is a layby above a very attractive bay just before the road briefly leaves
the coast to cross to the other side of the island (when I was there the
layby contained adverts for the Gorgona taverna - not to be confused with
the taverna itself which is in Aliki). Access to the beach appears very difficult,
but in fact there is a good (though stony) track about 20 metres from the
East end of the layby. Not suitable for a car but it's only 5 minute
walk. There were never more than three other groups there (including one
naturist couple and toddler) and going nude was no problem at all.
Beaches near Limenaria
There are two beaches on the east
side of Limenaria below the German House (a derelict gothic building
easily visible from most of the surrounding area). The main beach is the most
easterly and the smaller one is next to it and apparently accessible by rounding
the beach at shore level from the main one.
Earlier reports suggested that the beach below the German house, known
as Metalia, might be suitable - but the Captain understands that it is now
developed with absolutely no possibility of nude sunbathing. A
shame, because it sounds quite an interesting place.
There are two smaller bays nearer
to the town, also accessible from behind the German House, which were very
quiet but could only be reached after a scramble down the cliffs.
In Limeneria if you walk past the
taverna on the beach which has the bows of two boats at the front of it and
continue as far as you can go you will find a large sandy beach which is
isolated and you can strip off and my contributors were not disturbed by
anyone. The sea is quite rocky and my contributor only paddled about in the
rock pools!
Another beach visited by my
contributors was about 1 km west of Limenaria and has a sign for the Bio
Bio taverna on it. The area west of the rocky outcrop was nudist while they
were there, but the Bio Bio taverna wasn't open (opening "tomorrow":-))
A report from 1999 suggests naturist possibilities here.
The Captain hears about a beach about
1.5 mile north of Limineria. As you drive out of the town clockwise
on the ring road it can be seen on your left. Park just past the large house
on your right and reach beach by the small path. This beach was about
1 kilometre long and had only 3 other couples (all textiles) when my correspondent
visited. Two days of complete nude sunbathing and swimming. The beach
is very fine sand but sea is very rocky and quite sloping. Beach can be seen
from the road above but this did not cause us any problems.
Trypiti / Tripti As you go further out of Limenaria
to the West (i.e. clockwise) about 2 km from Limenaria you come first to
a layby a few metres from a small double cove (perhaps 40 to 50 metres wide),
which was always very quiet (only two or three groups, often including a
few naturists). Immediately after this lay-by is a signposted short road to
a large and beautiful beach called Tripiti. There are a fair number
of facilities including a bar and on the days my contributor visited there
were 10-20 nude sunbathers and bathers at the East (i.e. left) end. One of my contributors says the cove near Trypiti is so quiet it's amazing.
A report from May 2003 says that most days the beach was deserted but
towards the end of the holiday my contributors were joined by about 6
other naturist couples. The naturist section is to the left of the beach
looking out to sea. It is coarse sand and unfortunately it is a little
difficult getting into the sea because of rocks, but it is a lovely quiet
beach with a beach bar on the textile section. My correspondent would
recommend this beach.
Another Barefoot reporter describes it as a wonderful clothes-optional
beach (the left part of it). Crystal clear waters but poor access to the
sea. Facilities not included (except two taverns on the right part
of the beach), no sunbeds. Usually individuals and couples found there.
In August 2007 the nudist section on Tripiti was
quite small and very close to the main textile area, and Barefoot
reporters didn't really feel too comfortable there. However, going
on towards Limenaria there is a small bay immediately after Tripiti that
was about 50% nude.
West of the island
A correspondent did manage to find a few small, deserted beaches on the
west side of the island, north of Skala Maries. These were mainly rocky
and partly overlooked from the main road. It was possible to find plenty
of positions where the trees blocked the view from the road but there is
hardly time for passing motorists to do a double take anyway. My
contributors remained relatively undisturbed here for hours.
Skala Kalirachi
This beach is 3 km south of Skala Kalirachi.
After the road makes a 90 degree turn to the right you pass a traffic sign
saying speed limit of 30 is suspended and after 50m a new sign with 80.
There is a small parking space from where you can see the beach. You can
park the car a little further down. Beach has stones - but
there are several small sand dunes.
Part of the beach can be seen from the road above
- but its possible to find a spot hidden by trees. And even if you lay
visible from the road people passing by will only see you for a second.

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