Last updated 20 April 2008

Southern Crete: Contents:

Trafoulas Diskos Matala Kommos Kalamaki Aghia Galini Aghios Pavlos Aghios Fotini Ligres

Triopetra Preveli Skinaria Amoudi Damnoni Kalypso Plakias Mikro Amoudi

Souda Rodakinon and Ag. Marina Frangokastello Chora Sfakion Sweetwater Bay Marmara beach Gavdos Island

Beaches on this page are listed, as far as possible, from east to west.

TRAFOULAS/TRAHULAS

Barefoot reporters tell me about a beach situated east of Lentas. On explorecrete.com it also referred to as Psili Ammos.  Other web searches suggest the alternative spellings Trafoulas and Trahulas.  Apparently it is also known as Dragon Bay.

It is accessible from the villages of Lentas and Krotos. Though the way from Krotos is shorter, if you're coming from the north, it is not recommended because it is unmade and quite narrow and does not provide many choices in case a car is coming the opposite way.

So, here are the directions from Lentas village:  On your way to Lentas, just before you enter the village there is an unmade road leading to the east which has several signs that show the way to Loutra beach, Petrakis beach, and several tavernas and apartments. Follow this road. After a 15-20 minute drive you'll arrive at a recently constructed small port (which is actually a shelter for the fishing boats). Continue driving uphill and once you've reached the top of this hill, park your car there (you'll probably see more cars parked). The road continues up the mountain to the village of Krotos (and this is actually the alternative road  mentioned above). From this point you can see the end of the Trahulas Gorge that ends in Trahulas beach. Follow the (kind of steep) path leading to the bottom of the gorge (be careful!) and continue walking to get yourself to the beach. It is an approximately 15 minutes walk.

The beach is quite long with tiny pebbles and some smooth rocks in the middle, and the water is very clear. It seems to be protected from the western winds that usually blow in this area. It is a naturist beach with very few textiles visiting occasionally.

The only drawbacks are that there is almost no shade during the sun peak hours (approx 12.00-16.00). Also, there are no facilities, so you'll need to bring your own water, etc.

On the east part of the beach there are 4 caves, 2 high on the cliffs (one of them seemed to be the shelter of a couple that seemed to spend their holidays there) and 2 at the beach. They can offer some sort of protection from the sun, provided that there are not occupied by someone else. What is more, the cliffs at the eastern part seem to be suitable for climbing and there are marks that they have been used for this purpose (there are some "hooks" on some cliffs).

My reporter gives a very high rating to this beach, because it has this "away from everything" feeling, it is not crowded, it is very clean and the water is great.  Definitely worth visiting.

Another Barefooter who was there in September 2006 says this is a wonderful beach, better than Dytiko. Some 250 metres in width there were maybe 20 or 25 folk there during the course of the day - 90% nude. Take care if there are large breakers as there is a very strong undercurrent. Also take water and drinks supplies as the nearest taverna is 2 kilometres back on the dirt road.

ARISPETRAKIS BEACH

The Captain hears reports of a deserted beach just to the East of Lendas, secluded by rocks. 

Take the dirt track east out of Lentas for about 1 kilometre and there is a sign pointing right to Anatoli. After 500 metres park at the car park for the two tavernas. The beach starts in front of the first taverna and stretches 400 metres east. Walk along the beach for 100 metres and you will find a group of rocks which provide an excellent screen from the rest of the beach.

A report from the summer of 2005 confirms this, and describes it as a very nice beach with very clean water. Another from September 2006 says once clear of the taverna there were maybe 20 folk on the beach and coves, with 80% in the nude.
 

Diskos (near Lendas)

I am told that this beach is one of the most "traditional" naturist beaches in Crete. Until a few years back there were a lot of hippies that went nude even to the tavernas of the area. This beach is named Diskos and I think that with this name it is signed in most maps, but lately there has been put a sign that says "Dytikos". Anyway, it doesn't really matter, because locals still refer to it as "Diskos" (stress the "o").

Diskos is a gulf west of the Lendas village at the southern part of the Heraklion province. Lendas village is picturesque enough, but the beach is not worth visiting. Before you enter Lendas, you should see an asphalt road leading to the right. Follow it: Diskos is about 1 km away - at the west side of the headland you see in front of you. "Dytikos" means "Western". The western and central part of the beach was occupied by naturist wild campers when my correspondents visited in June 1999; however entry/exit into the water over the rock shelf can be dangerous, especially if the wind is blowing. Note that the signs entering the villages have the spellings "Lentas" and "Dytiko".

The eastern end (east of the tavernas) was the most traditional nudist beach with nice sand and even a volleyball net. It was nude although completely overlooked from the closest "Voula" taverna. Even the sea bed is sand in this part. The central part of the beach, closest to the tavernas but mostly hidden from them by trees, was primarily nude. Under the trees were many tents.

This part of the beach is sandy, but in the sea (except from the very west end) there are some slippery rocks, while the sea bed shelves quickly, so be careful. Opposite the central part are two or three tavernas located at the road upside the slope and hidden from the beach by trees. Sitting on a taverna you cannot normally see people on the beach with the exception of the Voula taverna from where you overlook the eastern part of the beach. There is a huge NO NUDISM sign painted on a wall (when the Captain visited, the only sign he saw was in German, to the effect "Please no naked bathing in front of the buildings", which seems at least polite). Nevertheless, although some reports suggest that nudism is not practised in the central part, other reports suggest that even directly below the Voula taverna (a little more to the east) most people were naked. My correspondents even saw a couple of young women sunbathing naked on the beach only about 50 m from and downstairs the Voula taverna.

In its central and western parts the beach is more stony and it is not so easy to walk barefoot. The western part of the beach has some parts of sand and some of rocks. Its great attraction is that you can find nice small beaches between the rocks and stones where you may be for yourself or together with only a few other nudists. My correspondents never explored this part to its end, but it was very nice to walk nude here and feel being part of a naturists' Eden.

Diskos is a very attractive beach because of its natural setting, its size and its completely nudist character. On this beach you have to search out the location you like, but you will find it!

The best taverna (and meeting point of everybody on the beach) is the Odysseas taverna. It is a self service taverna with reasonable prices (bottle of beer - 500 gdr) and good food. There is a mini market from where you can buy almost anything and a little "library" from where you can rent books. Most of the visitors are German. Generally, Diskos is a great place to relax, it's quiet and calm. The setting is rather dry and wild. A correspondent describes this as a good location if you want a simple relaxed atmosphere and clean rooms in the tavernas - but 30 kilometres away from anywhere else. My original corespondent thought Diskos had something that he couldn't exactly determine. Maybe it's the rumour that Nikos Kazantzakis (a famous Cretan author) wrote his last book in a cave at the headland that separates Lendas from Diskos.

Note that the road that leads from the Mesara plain to Lendas is not exactly a driver's paradise: although it's an asphalt road, it is an uphill road with many turns. It goes up the Asterousia mountains and then goes down again. But once you reach the top you'll see one of the best views of the Libyan sea.

Not everyone likes Diskos beach. A report from June 2001 says the water was murky and there was evidence that the sea had been used as a toilet.   Another correspondent, in August 2005, also found it full of (textile) campers, and very dirty and untidy.

It was filled with free campers and the beach was not very clean. The beach is divided in half by the village. Dead center, there is an un-attractive place that rents rooms (this is the one which says "please no naked bathing in front of the buildings").. The people directly in front of this wall were clothed. To the left (with your back to the sea) is the Taverna Christina. It is set back 30 m from the beach. Often there were naked people directly in front of it. To the right is the Taverna Voula. There were naked people on the beach 30 m away from it. My contributors ate at the Taverna several times and you can clearly see naked people all the way to end of the beach. Basically, they ignored the sign and walked nude past these buildings to reach the other end of the beach.

They stayed at the Villa Tsarakis which was very nice. The owners also own the Taverna Odyesseas which seemed to be patronized by very rough looking gypsy/free camper/hippie types. My contributors walked in, and then back out again. They would not return to Diskos unless the beach were cleaned up.

In June 2001 there was a swell on the sea for several days which, because of the shelving nature of the beach and the undertow, meant that only the strongest swimmers actually went swimming: not suitable therefore for children old enough to let go of parents. But the beach was pleasant nonetheless.

A correspondent who visited during July 2001 explored the narrow track that follows the coast to the eastwards out of Lendas. Past the first headland they looked down on a small beach where a naturist group seemed to have found a nice spot with trees for shade. They continued until the track descended to sea level and enjoyed a refreshing swim from the rocks.

A number of Barefoot reporters have said that it is great to swim around the rocks to the east, where you can find a cave in which you can enjoy the sun with the pigeons that live there. But it is only accessible when there is no strong wind, because of the current in and out of the cave.

Kali Limenes

Reports reach the Captain of a nudist beach in Kali Limenes (see photos and description on http://www.angelfire.com/me4/greekislands/kali.html), best reached by road from Mires.  My contributor says it is a lovely, long, white-coloured beach, one of the nicest beach he has found in Crete.  The village itself is small and tranquil, with just a few houses and fishing boats.

The Captain passed by here in September 2006 and didn't really share the view of the previous contributor.  An offshore island was dominated by a large oil tank.  There was a lot of wild camping on the beach, coupled with temporary shacks.  The beach is grey rather than white and although, admittedly, deserted it did not seem to be the attractive spot hoped for.  It was not attractive enough to stop.  In the Captain's view it was completely outclassed by Kommos and others in the locality.

A Barefoot reporter shared this view, rating the beach "disgusting".  It was backed all along by seemingly abandoned tatty caravans and tents.  One grotty taverna on beach itself.  The first thing they saw was a used sanitary towel and the garbage was everywhere, old tyres strewn along where fires had been lit.   Such a shame because you could tell without this, it would be a beautiful beach.

If you visit Kali Limenes be sure to use the road from Mires rather than the route through the monastery, which is unmade after the monastery entrance.

Agio Farango

The gorge of Agio Farago starts from the road from Odigitria Monastery to Kali Limenes on the south coast of Iraklion and ends at the sea, west of Kali Limenes.

There is a dirt track (going west) 500 metres after the riverbed on the road to Kali Limenes from the Odigitria Monastery. Follow the dirt track to the end and a footpath continues along the river, through the canyon, and past the monastery church to the sea. "Agio Farango beach" lat=34.9251553706, lon=24.7787408351 In September 2006, 60% of the people there were nude. The seabed was sandy with some pebbles. The beach has a lot of pebbles but a little bit higher on the shore there were sandy places. In the late afternoon there is some shade from the rocks. No food. No drinks No sunbeds at all.  For fresh water you can go to the well near the church. Keep the
place clean!

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Matala

This has a famous beach right in the centre with a picturesque cliff face honeycombed with caves once inhabited by hippies. It is not used by naturists.

The Captain called here for lunch during September 1988 and formed the view that there were quite a lot of hippies still present, although since they're now mostly in their 50s and 60s. By comparison with the 1960s no doubt things are a lot karma.

The Red Beach

The Red Beach is superb for nudists. It  was the only Greek location featured on "The World's Best Nude Beaches"  on the Sky Travel TV channel. 

However getting there involves a steep climb followed by a steep descent. The Captain has received some updated instructions for getting there. When you arrive in Matala town you find Zafirias hotel at your left hand. Immediately after this hotel take a left and fellow this road. When the asphalt finishes keep on to the dirt track and you are on the right path. It climbs to 80m above sea level.  However, a correspondent who visited in July 2003, says that the walk is very
nice, and also his kids enjoyed the climb.  There are certainly some good views!

There is a less steep approach if you can find it. Continue through the town until you reach the sign on the left for the "Marinero" bar. To the left is a path signposted to George's bar and the Mythos bar. Turn on to this path, but instead of turning immediately right towards the two bars, turn left past the front of an old house. This leads to the path over the hill.

Both routes join by a fence presumably intended to keep the goats under control. There is a gate opening on the path which leads down to the beach.

Be sure to carry refreshments for the walk, though; what is more, the refreshment hut has gone so you need supplies for your day there. The Captain revisited in September 2000 and increases his rating to 90% - it would be more if access was not so difficult.

A contributor from September 2004 says “there is no easy way to the Red Beach (long many it be so!)”.  Another comments on the great views and calm atmosphere.

However, another correspondent who visited in 1996 described the Red Beach as a clothing optional beach where he and his girlfriend didn't feel comfortable. There is an umbrella rental business. My correspondent thought there were too many umbrellas, one near another; so that if you want a quiet place, the Red Beach might not be the best place. Besides there are too many boats that carry people from and to Matala [that is an unfortunate development I agree], so the water is not so good. (his rating: 70%). His opinion (which I share): the people are destroying most of the places.

Better news from August 1999 - a correspondent reports that it seems that the umbrellas and the sunbeds are history as well as the refreshment hut. The sea was wonderful and "textiles" were a minority (less than 30%). The whole atmosphere was very friendly and peaceful. The Captain can personally confirm this impression following a visit in September 2000.

For some years a Belgian gentleman lived on this beach - an artist, doing carvings from local stone.  He kept one end of the beach for the nudists so that it did not get taken over completely by textiles. When he saw people in the naturist area with clothes on he apparently asked them to leave or to strip.   He was featured on The World's Best Nude Beaches.  However, reports from 2004 say he is no longer there.

What you find at Red Beach depends on the time of year. in high summer there are often lots of textiles but this can change from day to day. It can often depend on who gets to the beach first. A lot of people will strip once they see others nude so the best advice is, if you consider yourself a true nudist, strip off and set the standard.  The Red Beach is well known as a nudist beach and textiles can't be surprised (and one does wonder why they bother to make the climb when there are so many textile beaches in the area). There are plenty of good beaches for textiles, they do not need to take over ours. Don't huddle into a corner. Do your bit for nudism and strip! 

In May 2004 it was reported to be 80% naturist, in September 65%; another contributor comments that it seems to become more nudist later in the day.

Some contributors say they think I have made the climb to the beach as being worse than it is. Others report that they found it pretty tiring in the heat of summer.   And some German friends tell me that they think it is well worth it!  So try it and make your own mind up!

Barefooters who visited in July 2006 thought the beach was well worth the visit and there was a good mix of textile and non-textile sun bathers. Parasols were available along with some sun beds at the northern end of the beach. The elderly Greek gentleman collecting the money was very civil and gave those departing from the beach a very cheery wave! Good sand and good access to swim and snorkel. This beach does feel miles from anywhere but in reality it is only 'round the corner' from Matala (Textile paradise!).

The satellite TV programme suggested that you can reach the beach by boat from Matala.  The Captain hasn't ever seen such trips on offer but would welcome further reports.  All the reports the Captain has received so far suggests that there are no boat trips.

In July 2007 Red Beach was about 50% nude and it seemed to become more nudist later in the day.  Nude/not nude people were mixed - there was no definitely nude part of the beach. Refreshments can be found in a small building  in the centre of the beach. There is an umbrella/sun beds rental business but enough room left free. The water was excellent.

A gentleman was making carvings from local stones. He was with a lady and did not live at the beach but took the way from Matala. About 25 figurines was placed at large stone in the beach.

Kommos / Komos / Como / Comos

My correspondents are ecstatic about a beach called Komos about 5 km to the north of Matala on the road to Pitsidia. On the strength of these recommendations the Captain himself paid a short visit there in late September 1998. I can only agree with those who enthused about this beach. It is a very lengthy stretch of golden sand. Both ends are developed to some extent (a taverna at the southern end, a short walk from the archaeological site, and a visiting cantina - a refreshment van to the English - stops next to the site) and a small block of flats plus tavernas at the northern end, so naturism is mostly practised in the centre. But do not imagine this means the naked ones are crammed into a small space surrounded by the less enlightened folk. The naturist section of this beach must be a good half kilometre long. I walked naked from our position towards the southern end to the rocks that appeared to mark the northern extent of the naturist section, and back. It took nearly half an hour. There is plenty of space for everyone, plus landscape that looked very promising for nude walks behind it. There is some shade under trees at the back of the beach. For part of the length of the beach the sea bed is rock shelf, but towards the southern end of the naturist section it is sandy.

One contributor says Comos is the best nudist beach in Crete after Lendas, in terms of freedom. He never had the impression of being tolerated by textiles: it was the opposite...!

A common reservation is that the sea is sometimes not calm because of the wind. The beach is certainly prone to the Meltemi, which sometimes blows straight along the beach from north to south. This can cause flying sand. And when the sea isn't calm it can be quite difficult to get into the water on the slippery rocks. But others have said that this is the best nudist beach they found on Crete. If flying sand is a problem, since the wind comes off the sea simply move nearer the sea. Local information is that if it is windy at Komos it will not be at Kalimaki, and vice-versa. Kalamaki, however, is definitely NOT nudist (2003).

The Captain thought it was wonderful and would give it a rating of 96%.

It is accessible from both the northern and the southern end and in the whole central part nudism seems to be accepted and with absolute tolerance with about 80% naturist in the centre. The best way to reach the nudist centre of the beach is now by turning to the right (going towards Matala) from the track from Pitsidia, thus: From the main road in Pitsidia turn right at the supermarket with the sign "Rent Rooms 'Agapi'" and then immediately to the left on an asphalted track marked "Comos Beach". Follow this track to the crossroads with the sign "Horse and pony riding Pitsidia". At this point you can either follow the tarmac road to a large car park near the archaeological site. From here it is a short walk north along the beach to the naturist section. Alternatively turn right on a dirtroad. After 500 m you come to a place where you can park in shade under trees very close to the centre of the beach; however parking space here may be limited.

An alternative access, when going from Matala (N34 59' 37.1" E24 45' 03.5") to Pitsidia (N35 00' 57.4" E24 46' 46.3"): take the dirt road to the left, opposite the white-washed wall of the Speed Cafe, which starts on the corner with a youth camping at N35 00' 33.2" E24 46' 10.0".  There is now a sign to Komos beach and the road is metalled.  At the first crossroad, turn right downhill, which brings you to the archaeological site as mentioned above. The (textile) beach near the car park and the archaeological site is at N35 00' 47.2" E24 45' 36.1", whereas the central, clothing optional part is at: N35 00' 51.2" E24 45' 37.0".  Interesting to know that there is a shower near the car park. 

By September 2005, the ‘Agapi’ rent rooms had become ‘Nikos’ rent rooms, and the “Horse and Pony Riding” sign had disappeared, but the route is still pretty obvious.

A correspondent visited in July 2003, and enjoyed the long sandy beach very much. The sea was very calm, and provided excellent snorkelling: they saw a lot of fish.

The Captain has received many reports over the years, and the most recent suggest that little has changed.  The beach is not crowded despite the ease of access.

Around Comos free camping is tolerated and one of the few official camping sites in Crete is nearby, near Pitsidia on the road to Matala (it's just 10 minute walk from Comos).

In September 2005 it is reported that a German (nudist) calling himself “The Cakeman” is now selling delicious homemade cakes and coffee on the beach.

One other point about Kommos Beach. It has been noted by the Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece as a nesting site. This requires of those who visit the beach a considerable degree of responsibility. In particular, any nests should not be disturbed, any turtles should not be "assisted" to the sea (it is essential to their development that they find their own way) and the beach should not be visited at night. And as with all beaches, litter should not be left. True naturists leave only footprints in the sand. This web page exhorts all those who visit Kommos to follow these guidelines.

KALAMAKI Ref. J2 4,0 (References are to the Bartholomew (Clyde) map)

My correspondent visited Kalamaki on a Sunday, travelling from Festos via the village of Kamilari. Roads good all the way. Kalamaki is undergoing rapid development, mainly for local use. Beach is sand but leading to rock shelf at waters edge. On my correspondent's  visit there was no chance of going undressed. 

Another correspondent found other naturists present in August 1994 just a couple of hundred yards north of the village. The dirt track beyond Pitsidia which brings you to Komo has a branch which could bring you out closer to Kalamaki. Really, Komo/ Kalamaki/ Kokinos Pirgos is one long beach interrupted only by Kokinos Pirgos's little harbour.

Another correspondent confirms that in July 2003 this area was textile only, and that a lot of building construction was on-going. However a report from June 2006 says that the north end of the beach, about 200 metres from the town and before the rocky outcrop, is naturist again. However as it was early season, this could change.

Some GPS locations (in WGS-84): Kalamaki town: N35 01' 44.7" E24 45' 31.2", first access road when traveling south from Agia Galini: N35 02' 39.4" E24 48' 34.6".  Another access road: N35 01' 23.9" E24 48' 03.1"; this road passes through the town Kalimari (N35 01' 56.6" E24 47' 21.9"). The famous Festos/Phaistos archaeological site: N35 03' 06.4" E24 48' 41.6".  Agia Galini town: N35 05' 42.9" E24 41' 19.2".

Well signposted from main road south from Agia Galini. Long beach leading to Kommos at far end. Kalamaki beach is backed by tavernas, hotels etc with sunbeds and umbrellas.

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Aghia Galini

Now a busy resort struggling to retain its charm against the weight of tourism. The main beach is of coarse sand, fronted by tavernas and is often crowded. The naturist beach used to be reached by fording the river at the end of the main beach; however a bridge has now been built with the result that the sandy beach is now entirely textile and naturists are restricted to the rocky area below the quarry road. This consists of a number of small stony coves: it is very long but rocky both on shore and in the sea. As it might be offensive to bare all 20 yards from a textile party, it is necessary to walk until you find an unoccupied or already naturist cove. Most coves have only enough sand for one or two towels. When the waves are high, descent into the sea may be crab-wise. This is very much a second-class beach and although well used by nudists cannot be recommended (Rating: 30%).

A much nicer beach - though one where naturism is forbidden by large signs, is at Aghios Georgios: a pleasant (though quite energetic) walk to the north (follow the rocks with red dots painted on them). There is an unusual taverna overlooking this beach; well worth a visit.

A correspondent who visited in 1994 reports that they had to pay to park in the central town square by the harbour, for the first time ever! Not good news if it demonstrates how commercialised the place is getting.

Agios Pavlos H2 1,5

Reached from a side road off the Spili to Agios Galini main road. The side road passes through the villages of Ano and Kato Saktouria and is now tarmac all the way. The nudist beach is over a headland to the west of the main beach. There are two bays that you can get down to; they are separated by a big rock.  Warning: the sand goes all the way up the cliffs which you sink into whilst climbing down - your feet can get burnt if you are just wearing sandals or less (some - er - Barefooters recommend wearing socks). Then there is a long almost deserted beach under the cliff. It is also possible to get to Aghios Pavlos by the daily boat from Aghia Galini to Preveli which stops here on the way. This is a very attractive sandy nudist beach with great opportunities for walking nude on the long beach to the west.

A report from summer 1999 confirms this beach remains was uncrowded and primarily naturist although the sand hills do make both outward and return walks something of a scramble; definitely not for the unfit! The Captain visited in September 1999 (my, was it really so long ago?) and confirms this assessment. Ag Pavlos is a bit off the beaten track but is worth a visit. Afterwards enjoy a drink at Mama Eva's taverna overlooking the main (textile) beach.

One reporter found the entry to the beach by following a rocky sand way off the main road – to the west - just before Agios Pavlos. A small rock on the side indicates ‘Long Beach’. After leaving the car, the descent to the beach (either entirely via the sand dunes OR via a small path along the cliff) is quite dangerous! However, it is worth the effort and it keeps textiles away. The beach has a beautiful sea view! My contributor thinks it is definitely something to recommend and rates it 90%.

By September 2005, the sandy cliffs had become less of a problem: there are steps cut into the cliff up from the main beach (some remarkable coloured rock formations at the top!), and a sort of board walk takes the strain out of mot of the descent to the first of the bays the other side. The second is still quite hard to reach, however. A hedge has grown up in front of Mama Eva’s taverna, blocking the view altogether; but there’s quite a reasonable cafe right on the main beach.

In June 2005 the eastern beach was 50% textiles 50% nude. The western one can easily be reached by first going on the rock in the middle and then following the stepped path signed by paint down the rock. It was almost deserted apart from 3 nude couples. My reporters had a great day at this beach.

Barefoot reporters visited during July 2007 and decided to settle in the second bay. As soon as you climb down to the bay, look back - you will see excellent cave to hide from the strong sun and wind. They spent one amazing day there. In addition to our reporters there were two couples and one single man, all nude. The main problem that day was strong wind from the sea. It can cause flying sand and troubles climbing over the rock.

There is a way to the beach (second bay) that seems easier than climbing over the big rock - there is a dirt track that leads right to the cliff near the beach, you will see the track as soon as you go up by steps from main Agios Pavlos beach. Follow the track, you will see the beach on the left hand side.

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AGHIA FOTINI

Again access from the Spili to Ag, Galini Road, this time via the villages of Aktounda, Vatos and others.

To go to Agios Fotini beach turn right at Kerames. Now a good road to taverna and road continues around the headland to private house. Reasonable standard road through very rugged country to a taverna by a very pebbly beach.

You have to climb on rough stones to move around the headland (earlier reports suggested that there was a rough track - if so it seems to have disappeared). There is another building further round the headland. Totally deserted beach, sand and pebbles, enabled a nude swim with no disturbance. Real "end of nowhere" feel about the place.

A report from 1998 says this is still a totally deserted sand and pebble beach. However carry on walking beyond this around the small headland to find first beautiful, sandy beach, some 75 yards wide backed by huge sand dunes and green hillside. The beach is about 100 yards long with clean sand and continues past the next headland with another similar beach backed by 100ft sand dunes (this, the Captain believes, is Ligres beach). We spent the day in the second bay and only saw one other couple. Perfect "away from it all" beach - no facilities, no people, no clothes, no hassle! A report from June 1999 found textile male Greek bathers there albeit on a Sunday.

My correspondents went for a nude walk and rather ambitiously climbed around the rocky cliffs for 200 yards or so to find another enormous sandy beach stretching into the distance inhabited by only 2 naked couples - perfect! With hindsight they think the naked climb over the sharp rocky cliffs was rather foolhardy and would have been more comfortable had we worn clothes (and boots!). Continuing along this beach brings you to a taverna and another mile or more of golden sand.

LIGRES G2 8,8

See Ligres on Google Maps

Ligres beach is accessible by a good road (follow sign from Kerames to "LIGRES" and "Best Beach" - straight ahead at the junction in Kerames). An idyllic part of the coast which cannot long remain undeveloped. Take advantage of it whilst you can.

The Captain took this advice in September 1999. There had clearly been a major bush fire in this area and the road to Ligres passed through burned out woodland. There is a taverna at the end of the road and also what is described as a "mini-market" - although the Captain understands that this is in the bedroom of the taverna owner!

Walk east along the beach from here.  The further you walk, the more nude and deserted it becomes.  Pass a large rock at the water's edge and, if you are lucky, you will have miles of deserted beach all to yourselves.

The beach was long, made of sand and small pebbles, and easy to walk on in bare feet.  Wonderful swimming (partly rock shelf underfoot, similar to Kommos). We had something like half a mile of beach with one other (nude) couple on it. It is immensely reassuring that deserted yet beautiful places like this can still be found. The Captain returned in September 2003 and 2004 and can confirm that little has changed.

You could walk naked for miles along this beach.  The Captain set off exploring to the east as far as the eye could see.  The beach curves slightly to the left, and the Captain could see the enormous dune in the distance which appeared to be Ag Pavlos.  Blissful.

A report from June 1999 spoke of a taverna open with rooms to rent sign. There were about 6 textiles in front of the taverna, 3 people nude other end of beach. 2nd bay one other couple. Excellent, quiet all day. A later report from summer 1999 confirms plenty of scope for nude sunbathing but with a moderate sea running, swimming would have been ill advised due to the very strong undertow.

Barefoot reporters who visited in September 2004 found some textiles and campers at the entrance to the beach. Also, because of where the sun was, it looked a bit "grey". So they decided to try and drive a little more to the east. We followed a dirt track on the top of the cliffs and had a great view over Ligres. But we could not get back down to the coast. Subsequently it would have been better to walk along the beach from Ligres to the east. They saw only a small number op people on the beach, all nude.

Another beach can be found by walking to the west of the taverna at Ligres.  There is a small path along the rocky shore. If, after walking about 50m, you see a small water fall, you are in the right direction. The path involves some "light" climbing, but my contributor thinks that anyone can follow it easily. After about 300m you reach a small bay -about 200m long- that is totally deserted.

The beach has small pebbles and coarse sand, while some large rocks provide shadow. The sea is fine and deepens slowly. The bottom of the sea has fine pebbles near the shore, then some smooth rocks and finally sand. My contributors visited on a weekday of August and the beach was occupied by only two more naked couples.

It is a very quiet place, though sometimes it might be occupied by some free campers (there are sings of free camping near the rocks, but no litter at all). Wearing sandals, my contributors were able to do a long nude walk over the headland to the west that divides this beach from the Kerame beach and wander on that beach too.

And still another beach, according to correspondents from the summer of 2003, by going 200-300m over the rocks to the east of the taverna, when they found about 500m of “empty sand beach, only for us”.  Sounds good!

Barefooters who visited in June 2005 found, at the beginning of the beach, were some textiles and campers. Also, because of where the sun was, it looked a bit "grey". So they decided to try and drive a little more to the east. They followed a dirt track on the top of the cliffs and had a great view over Ligres. But they could not get back down to the beach. It would have been better to walk along the beach from Ligres to the east. They saw only a small number of people on the beach, all nude.

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TRIOPETRA

From the Spili to Agia Marina road, turn right through Akoumia.  After about 10 km, with beautiful breathtaking views to Libyan see, mountains and Paximadia Island, you reach the sea.  You arrive at the eastern end of the beach near the Cantina and clothed area. The 3 rocks of Triopetra are to your left. The whole beach must be 1200 metres or so. Turn west and there is initially a dirt track then a concrete road parallel with the beach for about a kilometre, then the road carries on to another bay.

This beach is sandy, with clean water, no wind, and almost no people: in 3 days our contributors saw only 3 other people, all of them naked, and they rated it the most beautiful beach (of many) they found anywhere on Crete.

They drove back through Ag. Paraskevi and Kerames to Spili, but it’s a very steep and rough track indeed as far as Ag. Paraskevi, and they don’t recommend this route.

Barefoot reporters who visited in September 2004 followed a dirt track above Ligres (using a jeep) that finally lead around a curve where suddenly a concrete road along the coast started. There was a 2km. long beach with almost no people on it. The 2/3 till the first taverna was 100% nude (only 4 couples). This is a really great beach for nude sunbathing. Only downside: there is always a strong current and waves.

One Barefooter says he can highly recommend Triopetra beach. He discovered it by chance some years ago. Don't be confused by the signs. As you near the coast, keep going straight ahead, don't turn left.  You'll see a 'light orange 'taverna perched above the beach on your right as you get to the coast called 'Yarkirdns' (great place to stay). Turn right on the beach and go to the far (western) end before you 'get comfortable'.  My reporter calls this beach 'paradiso'. It would have to be his all time favourite.

The Captain has previously warned that there must be long-term concerns for the future of this place, unfortunately.  there is apparently talk of building a 1,000-room hotel nearby.  Make the most of it while you can.  Unfortunately it sounds as if the downturn has already started.  The correspondent who called the beach "paradiso" tells me that when he returned in September 2006 he was horrified to see that a sealed road has now been created behind the beach, which runs parallel to the shoreline, and has completely destroyed the privacy that this incredible beach once had. It has ruined what he thought was one of Crete's best beaches! A real shame.

DRIMISKIANOS
Drimiskianos is a pleasant beach with alternating sand or pebbles; it's also fairly empty and you don't have to walk more than 200m along the beach before picking a spot for nude sunbathing and swimming. It is very empty and over 1 mile long, and its eastern end (away from Palm Beach) seems ripe for naturism now that Preveli Palm Beach itself has been lost.

To get there by car, take the Preveli monastery road. About 4km before the monastery (if you're heading south) cross the car bridge over the Megalopótamos, right next to a lovely 19th century foot bridge, (nearby which there is a new taverna) and follow the hand-made signs for "Palm Beach". Follow this road, which starts at GPS waypoint: N35 10' 22.5" E24 28' 02.6", for 4-5km over the hills. Previous reports suggested that the first half is paved. The Captain can confirm that this is not the case - the first few metres is, that's all. The rest of the road is unpaved and although evidently navigable by ordinary car it will be best with a jeep or 4-WD. Upon reaching the shore you'll see a couple of tavernas offering free parking. Park there (GPS waypoint: N35 09' 13.0" E24 28' 43.4") and walk east, or drive east along the road that follows the beach.

A report from October 2001 says Drimiskianos was almost deserted, with the exception of the area next to the parking lot . My contributors walked to the dramatic looking rocks and dark cliffs. In front of them was a nude couple, and behind them a nice secluded cove, which they enjoyed all by themselves. It is a long walk, but it's worth it.

A correspondent reports that in July 2003 this beach was almost completely deserted, although Palm Beach was overcrowded at the same time. Only near the parking lot, there were a few textile visitors, but more east only (even fewer) naturists. A lot of fish in the sea, and there is a large rock in the sea where youngsters were (safely) jumping from.

A report from July 2002 says that the road that follows the beach to the east was blocked by rocks after the first 500 metres.

PREVELI BEACH G2 5,9

See Preveli Beach on Google Maps

To reach Preveli by car, follow the instructions to Drimiskianos above, park at the tavernas which offer free parking, and walk west along the footpath to Preveli (5 minutes). If you don't want to drive over unpaved roads and don't mind climbing, there is another option: park at the Palm Beach parking lot, about 1.5km below the monastery, and climb down do the beach along a steep but well-marked and busy trail. Allow 15-20 minutes to climb down and 30-45 minutes to climb up.

If you don't have a car, take the tourist boats that leave from Plakias and stop at Damnoni.

Alternatively you go by car to the Preveli Monastery and step down by foot to the beach. Previous correspondents told me this takes about 15 minutes down and 30 up. A more recent estimate is 35 minutes down and 45 minutes to an hour up - either my earlier correspondent is really a mountain goat or the latter has become a little too relaxed ... however he also says that many people were wearing climbing boots. The Rough Guide notes that the climb is "steep, rocky and surprisingly arduous." An easier way of getting there may be by using one of the tourist boats from Plakias and Damnoni.

Preveli Beach it widely featured on picture postcards and is undoubtedly very scenic, as a beach which comprises a river mouth. Earlier reports indicated a naturist character, with "a lot of anatomy on display". However, Preveli is now totally commercialised with umbrellas and tavernas. The beach is small and covered with sunbeds and umbrellas. Walking further over the headland there is a taverna and car park (at the end of the long unmade track). Even having climbed all the way down my correspondents did not feel in the slightest bit tempted to stay amongst the clothed visitors and did not even swim in the rather cloudy water before climbing back and travelling to one of the much more attractive and accessible beaches. Don't risk your ankles - it's not worth the climb!

Some GPS waypoints (in WGS-84): the Preveli monastery: N35 09' 27.3"
E24 27' 25.3", the parking lot: N35 09' 14.5" E24 28' 13.7", Palm Beach
itself: N35 09' 09.6" E24 28' 24.1". See also the picture taken from the
foot path from the parking lot down to the Palm beach.

Although Preveli is no longer recommended for naturism one hears you can walk up the gorge through the palm trees and some people sunbathe and swim nude in the pools formed in the stream as it climbs.  Barefoot reporters who visited Preveli in Septemnber 2006 did this. They followed the path under the trees to where the river formed some pools. They found a nice hidden place and decided to "open the nude beach".  The pool was more than 2 metres deep and the water was clear and a bit colder than the ocean. Apart from occasional passing tourists you could think you are on a lonely island. Really great place, only the walk back to the car is a minus.

A report indicates that there is now an easy track over the cliff leading East to Drimiskianos.

A correspondent from October 2004 reports a long stretch of mainly sandy beach with a few rocks about 1 km east of Preveli, along a very rough road through the mountains after crossing the river by a ford near a stone bridge. Worth it though, because the beach is about 1 km long, and about 95% nude (until the cool of the evening when clothes became necessary to keep warm). Rated 95.  The same correspondent speaks highly of a nearby beach called Prakais, also about 95% nudist over its 1km length, with some textiles on only the last 150m or so. I have not been able to identify this beach, and unfortunately he does not give directions to it.

SKINARIA BEACH G3 1,0

This very scenic beach is reached via a fairly long but satisfactory road from Lefkogia. Skinaria Beach Hotel, set back from the beach, appeared to be abandoned in September 1988. A shame, because it looked as if it was once a very nice hotel and did not overlook the beach. A brand new Taverna (the Libyan Star) is coming to completion overlooking the coarse sand beach, and a diving school had set up its headquarters in the basement.

The Captain called at the taverna for a beer and to have a look at the beach in September 1998. Naturism was being practised on the left hand side (looking towards the sea) despite the fact that the (clothed) diving school was in full session on the right hand side.

The turning to the beach is well signposted, from both directions, in the middle of Lefkogia village.

Fortunately, some correspondents also visited in 1998 and stayed for a bit longer than I did. This is their account:  Beautiful beach overlooked by the Libyan Star taverna (proprietor plays surprisingly good Blues tapes at lunch time!). While the right hand end of the beach is heavily used by the diving school from Rethymnon, the left hand part remains a nudist enclave. Wonderful for snorkelling with plenty of fish. Shelving shingle beach - good swimming and beautiful setting. The diving school tend to remain at "their" end of the beach and were in no way intrusive. It was however disconcerting to be snorkelling and see two or three divers pass below you! The taverna served very welcome cold drinks and good food and was set sufficiently far back from the beach to not intrude on the quiet ambience of the beach. Our hosts told us that The Skinaria Beach Hotel (a few hundred yards back up the road) was apparently abandoned suddenly - and drinks were left on the tables and behind the bar!"

Not everyone feels comfortable stripping off here, though, particularly because of the taverna and the diving school.  Others (e.g. a report from summer 2002) say the atmosphere in the naturist section was very relaxed, good snorkelling, and that the beach ought to be highly recommended. 

A correspondent reports that in July 2003 almost all of the beach was
textile (except for himself), but confirms that not everybody likes
stripping there (like the rest of his family). But the snorkelling was
good (even if you sometimes see divers pass deep below you).

Correspondents in July 2004 and June 2005 both report no naturists at all. It’s a truly magical spot as the sun goes down behind the multiple folds of mountains into the sea, however!

The road to the beach starts in Lefkogia at GPS waypoint N35 10' 41.6"
E24 26' 34.5". The beach itself is at N35 09' 59.5" E24 25' 20.7".

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AMOUDI BEACH. G3 1,0.

Marked by yellow patch on the map which corresponds to Amoudi and Damnoni but is unlabelled. It is reached by a road (signpost Amoudi Beach Hotel) between Lefkogia and Damnoni. The hotel is set back from the beach. During September 1998 naturists were present early in the morning but by lunchtime the beach was mostly textile. An earlier report from 1998 confirmed that nudism was sometimes practised on Amoudi. Some days it was completely textile, on other days there were about 50% naturists or less. The nudists generally gather at the left hand side (eastern side) of the beach. A visit in September 1999 confirms this impression. The water is not as clear here as in the Mikro Amoudi coves.

This road to the beach starts at GPS waypoint N35 10' 37.8" E24 26' 06.3".  The Amoudi beach itself is at N35 10' 16.8" E24 25' 14.8".

Some reports suggest that the Amoudi beach had become completely textile. The Captain was last there (passing through on the way to Mikro Amoudi) in September 2004 and noted that the naturist pattern (or lack of it) had not changed.

MIKRO AMOUDI (or Amoudaki)

See Mikro Amoudi on Google Maps

A correspondent on the Barefoot Forum informs us that these beaches, which we have always known as the larger and smaller coves of Micro Amoudi, are properly known as Amoudaki and Micro Amoudaki respectively. The two coves sit between Damnoni and Amoudi beaches, easily reachable from either. By car they are best reached from Amoudi.  A short path leads from Amoudi (park at the car park behind Amoudi beach and walk up the hill to the right facing the sea.  After a few metres you come to an inaccessible rocky cove; a few metres more brings you to the smaller of the two coves; and yet a few metres further to the larger cove. The total distance is not more than 200 metres from the car park. From Damnoni, it is about 300 metres. The tracks are not sensibly navigable by car, however. From Damnoni the path to the east is now navigable by car but easier on foot. It is well worth the effort.

The larger cove at Mikro Amoudi (Amoudaki itself)

The more westerly of the two beaches is a superb cove of golden sand (see picture) with hardly a stitch of clothing in sight, despite the advent of beach umbrellas and, unbelievably but very usefully, a free cold shower. Sunbeds and parasols were available at 3 Euros a day each. It is a popular beach, though not large, and gets crowded in high season. The Captain has now visited this beach for the fourth time (most recently in September 2002) and confirms that it is usually 99% nude. During 1999, however, the number of umbrellas and sunbeds crammed into what was a Cretan Eden has increased, leaving little room for those of us who prefer to use beach mats and our own parasol on a short visit. This made the beach feel crowded even in late September/early October.  When the Captain last visited (September 2006) there seemed to be so little room left that he felt the beach was in danger of being spoiled. 

These considerations reduce my rating for the beach from 95% a few years ago to 85%.

Some contributors note a very attractive relaxed atmosphere. It is also visited by all categories of people. Young, middle aged and old people, different nationalities. There are as many women as men. This is a place where even young single women feel comfortable to go naked.

What better recommendation could there be?

Contributors from 2004 and 2005 confirm all the above; several enjoyed being among a larger group of naturists, rather than having to hide away behind rocks, or seek out unfrequented corners. Another comments that, after Ibiza, it certainly did not feel in the least crowded even at the height of summer! Refreshments are now sometimes available from the girl who looks after the umbrellas. She also often even finds time to take little pottery ash-trays to sunbathers who are smoking! 

Barefoot reporters who were there in July 2007 confirmed earlier reports. This fabulous little beach hosts a very mixed crowd of families, couples and singles of both sexes and all ages, different nationalities, all totally relaxed and comfortable with each other. 80%+ nude, with many mixed textile/nude groups and families. Sunbeds and umbrellas are getting a trifle expensive at 9 euros a set (price went up 2006). Refreshments from the sunbed lady's cantina still reasonably priced. In the sea, the swell can be a problem and can spring up even on calm days, hence the less than 100% rating - watch the kids.

The doughnut man from Plakias Bay is has been a welcome visitor - in 2007 he was arriving around 5pm.

One correspondent found strong winds and reckoned it was only about 50% nude that day, but all other estimates are of 90%+ nudity, whatever the season, day or time; ratings, where given, are from 90 to 100 points.

The smaller cove at Mikro Amoudi

The more easterly Mikro Amoudi beach is a tiny cove. Reaching it involves climbing down a short but almost vertical cliff - be careful, we bear the scars; it is certainly not easy and stout footwear is essential. This cove is surrounded by steep cliffs on three sides. A rocky pinnacle stands out of the water. Everyone in this little cove was naked (September 1997). As in many parts of Greece the water was beautifully clear. Swimming around the pinnacle was utter bliss. On revisiting this beach this year I found myself thinking that if I were to give 100% to any beach I personally know this would be it. But the difficulty in getting down to it must knock off a point or two. (Rating: 98%).

Apart from swimming around the rock, there were other activities which correspondents say they have enjoyed: Sitting nude on the rock in the sun, with your feet in the water / Jumping from the 6m high surrounding cliffs into the water, by young textile locals in the afternoon (NB the Captain does NOT recommend trying this yourself).

A report from 1998 described the smaller Micro Amoudi beach as nice, but sometimes textile. Various reports suggest that the first visitors of the day determines its textile or nude character; equally, however, once somebody strips others seem quick to follow. The site is well protected and has a real "naturist community" effect.

Stronger swimmers will normally have no difficulty in swimming between the two coves. One of my contributors even describes walking back by the road top descend to the smaller beach naked and on bare feet - the Captain would not recommend that, though; the route is rocky and stony.

One day in June 2005 there were no less than 18 people who had dressed up to come here, and only 2 upholding naturism - that did feel rather crowded, and in the wrong sort of way, but was fortunately an exception. The larger beach was much to be preferred that day.

The Captain has received a number of similar reports suggesting a proportion of textiles in this idyllic little cove, but it is quite clearly still very much a place for nudists.

One recent contributor has found an “underwater door” on the right hand side, connecting to the larger beach, which he says was easy to swim through.  The Captain does NOT recommend this unless you are a very confident and strong swimmer - we do not want to lose any naturists this way! 

However, a word of warning. The pictures here suggest a picture of calmness and tranquillity, and indeed that is a true image of the state of these beaches during much of of the summer. But occasionally the sea does become lively. The sea bed slopes quite quickly and there are rocks to the sides. It is said that in certain conditions there is an undertow. In rough conditions great care should be taken while swimming, and if you have children with you the much shallower beach at Plakias might be a safer bet at such times.

DAMNONI

From the east of Plakias beach it is possible to follow a path to Damnoni (about half an hour's walk) - the path starts behind the Plakias Bay hotel (this is the roughest part) and is waymarked by red spots and arrows on stones.

An easier access by car is to take the road from Plakias to Lefkogia and take a small road (at GPS waypoint N35 10' 54.6" E24 25' 03.6") with signs to the "Hapimag" time sharing complex. The Damnoni beach itself is at GPS coordinates N35 10' 29.4" E24 24' 51.5".

Damnoni Beach is a large stretch of sand with a two tavernas and a cantina. The middle of Damnoni beach is now dominated by "Hapimag" a large timeshare complex aimed at German tourists (a developments which is signposted for several miles around), and the Damnoni Beach Hotel behind it. There is a large area of sun umbrellas and parasols. The derelict "Minoan Prince Hotel" stands over the eastern end. The Captain remembers that in 1991 the eastern end was naturist. Reports from September 1997 and 1998 said that there were no naturists. However when the Captain last visited in September 2000 there was a small enclave of naturists on sunbeds with parasols at the far eastern end. Don't count on it, though; and anyway Mikro Amoudi is only a couple of minutes' walk round the headland from here.

For years The Captain has kept this entry alive because mainly of some pleasant memories of blissful nude relaxation on this beach in the mid 1990s - before the advent of beach umbrellas across the whole length of the beach.  Some isolated nudity could be found at the eastern end.  But as of 2005 contributors are asking why anyone would want to come here now, unless to park a car and walk the 300 metres to Mikro Amoudi. 

KALYPSO

The Captain still receives occasional enquiries about Kalypso.  Unfortunately the sad news is that Kalypso is no longer available for naturists. It is difficult to imagine that this relatively old fashioned and isolated hotel without a beach is that attractive if it were not for its rather unique status as a nudist destination.  There are many advertisements around Plakias for Kalypso Rock's [sic] diving school.

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PLAKIAS

See Plakias Beach on Google Maps

Plakias has a very friendly community, and repeated visits have led the Captain to develop a real affection for the place and its people. And it is surrounded by wonderful scenery and some of the best beaches the Captain has had the pleasure to visit are in the vicinity.

But the future of this destination, for many years a great attraction to Crete-bound naturists and possessing what is surely one of Europe's best naturist beaches, is uncertain.  Plans are in hand to build a huge development of studios and apartments on the land between the main part of the town and the naturist beach.  Although the plans do not suggest that this resort will extend as far as the naturist beach itself, there must be at least some risk that the arrival of large numbers of new visitors will have a negative effect.  That said, it's clear nothing will happen overnight, so we still have the benefit of this wonderful beach at least for a few years.

The Plakias Bay beach (GPS N35 10.877 E24 24.064) is a huge stretch of golden sand. The south east end is fine sand, with umbrellas and sunbeds, and primarily nude for the last section (three or four hundred metres) which is largely screened from the road by dunes. The entry to the sea is shallow for some way out, which may make it more suitable for children than some of the other naturist beaches in the area. There are showers on the beach, although sometimes reduced to a trickle. It is also quite busy. Very pleasant and well recommended.  This is one of my favourite nudist beaches in the whole of Greece (rating 97%).

The naturist section is often by far the most crowded part of the beach, with very few dissenters among the naked ones.  It is one of the best beaches in terms of feeling comfortable with fellow sunbathers whilst being so close to the town and road.

The setting is perfect. Mountains on three sides, a small fertile valley, and a beach about two miles long.  The headland to the west is shaped like the head of a sleeping dragon (watch him breathe fire at sunset). 

The east side of the beach (hidden from the road by a few dunes) is mostly nude, with a simple and friendly atmosphere. The hotel behind (Plakias Bay Hotel) can be recommended. Barefooters also recommend Paligremnos Apartments, right opposite the nudist beach.

Plakias beach is a bit of a magnet for the Captain, I'm afraid; I keep coming back, most recently in September 2006 when it was just as perfect as ever.

The doughnut man calls every day, yum, yum! He calls: "Extra vitamina!  Extra!  A doughnut a day keeps the doctor away ..."

Beach umbrellas extend into the nudist area and are used by nudists. Enough room in front and beyond them for those not wanting one. 90% nudist in this area. Early reports from 2001 reported "no beach facilities -either umbrellas or doughnuts" but by the end of May all were back in place. A beautiful beach in a beautiful bay. Another report wished that the beach could be cleaner. Cleanliness has not in the past been a significant problem here. Reports from June 2002 suggest more naturists than ever at the Eastern end, and sunbeds priced at 6 Euros per day.

Many reports have been received in 2004 and 2005, mostly very positive and confirming all the above. The sun-beds now cost only 5 euros per day; and there are now reported to be beach bars in both the non-naturist and the naturist sections. Two reports, however, speak of flotsam and rubbish; another found that seaweed and flies were an unpleasant nuisance also; and another described the water as rather murky. In spite of this, overall impressions are still favourable, and two reports particularly commend it for young families.

Reports from June 2007 say that Plakias beach is just as perfect as ever, with the shower in full working order and the doughnut man alive and well.  It's well signposted and has good access roads.

More information about Plakias can be found on Ostraco's Plakias page.  It includes worrying ideas about huge new developments and extending building in Plakias along the beach road.  This could all too easily ruin everything.

Some contributors recommend Lance Chilton's brochures outlining walks in the Plakias area. They're very good if you want to get to the beaches on foot. There are 10 walks in the Plakias area, 7 more challenging walks in Plakias. It can be obtained in the supermarket next to the bus stop in Plakias.

The local authority has taken to arranging a free festival for the benefit of the tourists on "Tourism day" at the end of September, with food and local wine, music, singing and dancing. Thank you to Finikas authority and all involved for this  generous and enjoyable gesture. 

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WEST OF PLAKIAS

SOUDA

There are two tavernas here. Although a part of the big sweep of Plakias Bay the western end called Souda Bay is a definitely separate section. There is now a good road from Plakias, about 4km from the centre of Plakias to the tavernas at the Western end of Souda. It is possible to walk (about 45 mins) but this beach has the distinct advantage of being served by tour boats. The beach is excellent being a mix of sand and shingle. It was partly shaded by the cliff at the western end during the late afternoon. Usage varied considerably during our stay but with an overall "do your own thing" feel. When we visited in 1991 about 70% of this on the beach were nude (Rating: 65%). My 1994 correspondent reports that at the start there was a good nude usage in the mid section to eastern ends, but towards the latter part it was increasingly dressed. Possibly the increasing wind strength had driven people away. There are a number of building sites overlooking the bay and it may be quite different in a year or two.

The nude part is visible from the road. Mixed reports of usage by naturists. One report from June 2000 reports a sole male naturist being angrily abused by locals; obviously hard to know what that can have been about. Another indicated that there were still nude people on the beach at 6pm together with some textiles, and that the nude part had a different type of beach umbrella from the textile part. An email from May 2001 reported relatively few people on this beach, with perhaps 30% nude, mainly in the middle stretch where there is a bit of protection from the road. Some contributors find this beach uninspiring after visiting those at Mikro Amoudi.

But contributors who visited this beach in later part of September 2003. preferred Amoudi (west) but high northerly winds were swirling into Amoudi to a degree that they found it uncomfortable. At this time, Souda was relatively sheltered. The nudist end of the beach is the east end, the part of the beach you first come to as you come from Plakias. There were a different set of umbrellas at this end than at the other parts of the beach. Nudity seemed to be well accepted and practised here. Most of the sunbeds & umbrellas at this end of the beach were occupied, about 90% nudist, plus a number of other nudists using their own beach mats. Mostly couples on this beach. Umbrella + 2 sunbeds was 5 euros for the day. This beach is a good alternative if it is too windy at Plakias or Amoudi.

A report from the summer of 2004 tells that Souda is usually good for naturism early in the day, especially at the eastern end, but becomes increasingly textile later. Weekends were 100% textile, and there is a fair amount of new building overlooking the beach. It sounds as if nudity may be on the way out here, sadly.

But a report from June 2006 tells me that Souda beach remains nudist at the Eastern end (nearest to Plakias) where there are 30 or so sunbeds. Mainly middle aged couples English Swedes Austrians. On Sunday there was no problem most people there were nudist.

RODAKINON (or Koraka) BEACH F3 3,2

Accessible from the (Main) road between Plakias and Hora Sfakion at a turn off in Kato Rodakinon. This access in GPS WGS-84 coordinates: N35 12' 01.5" E24 19' 03.4".

We found two rather separate sections. The first was a not very attractive shingle beach with a prominent "No nudism" sign the second a sandy beach with taverna behind. A family beach on our visit, firmly dressed.

AGHIA MARINA BEACH

The taverna mentioned in Rodakinon is next to a rocky hill, which marks the west end of Koraka beach. The REAL beauty is located behind this hill. You can either climb it following the path that lies somewhere near the taverna or continue with your car past the Polyrizos Hotel to the end of the asphalt road. You'll see an iron fence before you. On your left there is a small unmade road leading to the beach. Leave your car there and continue on foot, unless you have a jeep or a motorbike. The beach is about 250m away. This is the first section of the beach and the most crowded of all. Once you reached the beach you can explore to the west, where the next two sections are. The first of them is visible from where you are. It is a 300m sandy beach. Carry on walking and pass the small headland. Now you are at the Aghia Marina beach.

The church of Ag.Marina is at the east end of the golf and has some Byzantine frescoes (although destroyed to some length). In all of these sections of the beach, people go naked although during high season (around 15 August) there are quite a few local people who go dressed. During this period, the first section is the most crowded (max 30 people in a 200m long beach, that is) and dressed of all, but again naked people are 2/3 majority. The next two sections and especially the Ag.Marina beach are the most isolated and give you this "in the middle of nowhere" feeling. You can walk around naked and explore, though you shouldn't get in the church naked, as it would be considered a sign of disrespect. You may see local people roaming around, but it's ok: they are pasturing their sheep and will not disturb you. My correspondent visited this beach 3 times during summer 1998. The beach is very good for camping, the sea is crystal clear and the setting is magnificent. My correspondent gives it a 96%!!

However the sand is coarse and stony in places and the seabed is generally stony and although there are sandy places on the seabed the rocks may be a bit off-putting for swimming.

Correspondents who visited in August 1999 found the second beach to be as good as the actual Aghia Marina beach (with its small church). There were very few bathers on the three beaches. The water was perfect and we enjoyed the setting anyway.

A report from August 1999 indicated that nudity was difficult at the weekend because of the preponderance of Greek families, but at other times it was "quiet and wonderful".

A report from September 1999 said Aghia Marina beach was well attended with a number of families camping under the trees. There was a group of artists sketching near the old church who remained firmly dressed but other visitors were mostly nude.

When the Captain visited in September 1999 nudity would have been possible on any of the three beaches. The Captain stopped on the third, but on reflection thought the second if anything more attractive. Other correspondents seem to agree.

There is vehicle access via an unmade road from the main Rodakino to Hora Sfakion road that was used by both 4 wheel and 2 wheel drive vehicles. My correspondents tried the first stretch in a Fiat Panda but abandoned the attempt when they saw the state of the roadway. Given that hire car insurance does not cover tyres or the underside of the vehicle, the safest (and possibly least expensive) route to take is the one described above.

A report from May 2001 describes all three beaches as being virtually deserted, with nudity possible on all three.   A similar report from May 2002 confirms this.

Unfortunately, by the summer of 2004, a report states that these beaches were 100% textile during the week, and that the area was crowded with cars, caravans and tents. This may just have been an isolated phenomenon, as in the autumn of 2004 even the first beach at the end of the track was deserted, and thoroughly enjoyable for naturism. A visitor in the summer of 2005 noted very few people, but, sadly, all clothed.  In September 2005, however, there were several campers, all of whom were naked, and a few other nudists were present also. This is obviously one of those beaches where opportunities for nudism vary according to the taste of those using it.

A report from 2006 says there is now a taverna on Ag Marina called "Tou Drakou", which sells drinking water.

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FRANGOKASTELLO E3 8,1

The old fort of Frangokastelli lies on the south coast of Crete, not far from the towns of Chora Sfakion and Plakias. In this part of Crete, the coast is mostly an abrupt boundary for the mountains, but for several miles east of Chora Sfakion there is a gently undulating strip of land anything up to 2 miles wide between the sea and the bases of the mountains (and the ravines and gorges which slice into them). Frangokastelli stands on a slight promontory of this strip, and is visible from miles away. The beaches directly below the fort are textile, but about a mile to the east is a fair-sized naturist beach.

If travelling from Chora Sfakion, follow signs to Frangokastelli, then stop for a wander around the fort. The Venetian outer walls are still in reasonable condition, but the later Turkish constructions inside are mostly ruined.

Leave the fort and head on east. Once out of the town, after about 500m look out for a track off to the right signposted "Sunrise Taverna". The track is level and won't present any problems for an ordinary car. The taverna is around 200m along the track, with plenty of parking space. Concrete steps provide an easy way down the cliff until almost the bottom, where some easy scrambling is required. Then walk about 300m along the firm sand of the textile area to reach the naturist part of the beach - which extends right the way round to the cliff at the far end of the bay.

This is a lovely beach, with gently shelving fine sand. There seemed to be no significant currents. Unfortunately, the curve of the 25m sand cliff behind the beach, and the rocky cliffs at either end, block off all views of the mountains and coast - unlike spectacular Plakias some 15km east. Directly above the hazy boundary between textile and naturist areas is the Fata Morgana development. One can get to the beach from Fata Morgana taverna.  Drive past the Faros Taverna into the second car park. There are new concrete steps after a ramp, going 2/3 of the way to the beach. Probably another higher connection will be made to the top of the steps in the future. Whether the steps will be extended further towards the sea is another matter.

Interestingly, Simply Greece wax lyrical about the beach but don't mention that about half of it is naturist. Also, their brochure and Website show the sand as white, when it is a lovely pale gold. GPS waypoints in WGS-84: Turn off for Sunrise taverna N35 11' 02" E24 14' 28" Sunrise Taverna N35 10' 56" E24 14' 30" Naturist beach N35 10' 59" E24 14' 47".

The beach below the castle had sprouted umbrellas since our last visit three years ago but otherwise had not changed much. The undeveloped beach some 500m further east had changed in that it appeared to have lost a large amount of its sand at the Western end.

The last 200m or so is narrow and sandy with excellent swimming and is completely naked. Although some of the sand in the first 100m seems to have disappeared - don't be disheartened - and keep walking as the beach is worth it. This beach seems to offer good sunbathing and safe swimming even when it is blowing a gale on the rest of the South Coast. A report from June 2000 confirms that it is still all nudist. This beach is named "Orthi ammos" on the Explore Crete and Naturism in Crete web sites and was almost deserted. As on the main Frangokastello beach, you need to wade out a long distance to get enough water to swim in. 75% nudist.

A report from July 2001 confirms that this is indeed an excellent beach with naturist and textile coexistence, although it must have been nicer still before the development along the cliff top. The sand is perhaps mobile as we did have water deep enough to swim close to the shore. Also, you can see the magnificent hills just by swimming out a little way!

The road to this beach from Plakias is well made and winds through the mountains. The journey is worthwhile for the scenery alone! The castle at Frangokastello is worth a visit although the beach there is textile. There has been a great deal of development here recently.

Contributors who visited in high season in 2000 said that the beach was "mixed" near the Fata Morgana taverna but almost entirely nudist near the cliffs. They thought this one of the best locations in Greece and rated it 90%.

In May 2001 the beach was said to be entirely clothed for the first few hundred metres under the sand cliffs, but then became entirely nudist for the last 200 metres or so.

Some who visit the beach go to the rocks at the end where is a waterfall along the stones. You can find clay stones there and use those to paint your and your partner's body grey!

Some Barefooters have noted that the beach can be prone to sandblasting on a windy day.  This is true, but depending on the wind direction it can be more sheltered here than at Plakias or Amoudi, for example.

The Captain paid a return visit in September 2004 and again in 2006 and thoroughly enjoyed revisiting this delightful clothes-optional beach.  For me the rating goes up to 95%.  Other visitors in 2004 and 2005 agree: it’s lovely, and not crowded even in late July and even on Sundays. The feeling of space was wonderful, and it was good to walk there nude; the water was warm, and the percentage of nudists was always very high. The only criticism was that it could be a bit windswept, and lacks natural shade.

In September 2005 the nudist area was 100% nudist on several visits.  In September 2006 twice as many people were using the nude part as any other section.  One contributor wonders if one day we might see a reversal, with nude beaches being the norm.  In which case we might need a "Captain Textile" web site.  Er, no, I don't think so!

Interestingly, an official-looking sign at one of the paths down to the beach states various rules; among other things, it is forbidden to “Make nudism, apart from the end of the beach”. As the prohibition on “making nudism” specifically does not extend to “the end of the beach”, it follows that that must be an area where “making nudism” is specifically allowed! Do we now really have an officially recognised nudist beach in Crete?

Lakki Beach

Reports reach me of another suitable beach further east of Frangokastello. From Frangokastello, drive east towards Rodakino. Beyond the sign for Fata Morgana, fork off at the signpost to Lakki Beach: the asphalt road turns into progressively coarser gravel, but is still negotiable in a regular 2-wheel drive car. Pass the sign for Mary Beach apartments and continue straight past the final sign for Zorbas Tavern. Keep driving past the first dirt track with an irrigation spigot, to the second dirt track on the right with an irrigation spigot: take this second track to the beach. Also driveable - with care! - as far as the third irrigation spigot, after which it's a five-minute walk and clamber through trees opening onto a small, very secluded cove, maybe 100 metres end to end. The beach is immaculately clean and mostly extremely fine gravel: comfortable for walking barefoot, yet the stuff doesn't lodge everywhere like sand does. It slopes quite gently, so it's also safe for paddling, though both the beach and the entry to the water are a bit rocky in places.  We met several naturist couples on our numerous visits there; they had also found the beach by persistent trial and error.

In September 2004 there were textile campers here, and signs of camping in July 2005 too; but no one was around on that July day, and the beach is described as lovely.

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Chora Sfakion

VRITOMARTIS HOTEL

A naturist hotel has been established: the Vritomartis Hotel. It apparently requires its guests to be nude at the pool and on the beach.

A correspondent visited with his wife in early June 1999, booked through Dune. They stayed in a bungalow room adjacent to the pool. The pool area is fully nudist, has a snack bar facility and a very laid back feel of calm and quiet (May be different in school holidays). Guests are required to dress in the main hotel building and a white towelling robe is part of the provisions in the room.

Evening meals are taken on the terrace and offer a reasonable buffet choice but all of a high standard. The waiters will serve you with your choice of drinks. Alternate nights a musical duo plays on the bar terrace but there is no disco or more lively affair. On the Saturday evening there was a Cretan song and dance evening which was top class. Breakfast is again a buffet affair, adequate but not exciting with cold meat and cheeses.

The "working day" usually started by walking to the beach. Fylaki beach is owned and run by the hotel and is nominally 900 metres away along a winding tarmac road. The beach itself is pebble and rock, around 100 metres long, backed by high cliffs. Sea bottom slope is shallow enough to provide security for the poor swimmer but soon gives onto deeper water, clean and clear. Umbrellas and sunbeds are available for hire. The beach bar provides drinks and snacks all day long and there is no requirement to dress for service. A much smaller beach is accessible to the east at sea-level if you are prepared to get your feet wet or up the road and across the cliffs. The bus makes several trips each day and is definitely the best way to go back to the hotel. You can walk but it is an uphill trudge and you are advised to dress when using the road.

A walk into Chora Sfakion took about half an hour, mostly downhill. Again, the bus is the easiest way back. It runs every hour and a half.

The clientele is primarily German and Dutch (there were 4 English couples there during our week) but most of the staff speak adequate English. The hotel has an events organiser who arranges guided walks and boat trips (boat from Hora Sfakion harbour). Staff were cheerful and helpful, cleanliness and maintenance were first class.

If you want peace and quiet, a good standard of accommodation and food and are happy with pebble beaches and pool then Vritomartis may suit. If you want long, sandy beaches and lots of nightlife then go elsewhere. Vritomartis is no busier in the school holidays. In fact according to the hotel this is a quieter time than May - June and September.

Another contributor who stayed here in September 2000 says the hotel was high class. The cost was 13,000 drachmas for one person for one night. The cost is now included on the hotel's web site. The cost includes a very nice breakfast but the dinner is extra. Everyone was nude at the pool and at the beach and mostly nude at the snack bar. No nudity is allowed in the common areas inside the hotel. The dinner was offered on an outdoor terrace and nudity was not allowed there either. The clientele was almost all German. The pool is large enough to swim laps in.

Barefoot reporters stayed at Vritomartis during September 2006.  The hotel was completely full during their stay. It continues a tradition of superb cleanliness and friendliness. There was a very wide range of clientele in terms of couples (mixed and same sex), singles and age groups. It makes for a great eclectic mix. There were plenty of people around the beautiful pool and down at Filaki beach. Interestingly the hotel owners are improving the old hotel beach for opening in the spring 2007. This should give a choice of two hotel naturist beaches in the future.
 

SWEETWATER BAY

Sweetwater bay is located between Loutro and Chora Sfakion. Glikanera is the Greek word for sweetwater. It is well worth visiting. From Chora Sfakion you take the road to Anopolis. You pass Ilingas beach and after only a few bends the way takes a right hand turn where you can park the car. (But there is only room for one or two cars). This access point in GPS
coordinates: N35 12' 07.0" E24 07' 02.7". 

At the bend in the Anopolis road there is a sign saying, "E4 Sweetwater Beach." This sign, like many other road signs and rubbish bins, is riddled with bullet holes! From there the foot path down to Glikanera begins. This 30 minutes walk is an adventure since the path leads you 50 m above rocks and water without fences, but if you are an experienced hiker it should be no problem to you. The beach itself is of pebble stones which are rather difficult walk on bare feet. However, it is entirely naturist There are several sweetwater holes, but these are for drinking, NOT washing! You will upset the campers a good deal if you wash in them. At the western end of the beach there was a taverna, for which you need to dress, and there were a few clothed bathers near the taverna in 2004. The beach can also be reached by a 1 hour walk from Loutro, or you can go by canoe from Loutro.

From Loutro, Sweetwater can be reached either by an approx 1.25 hour walk along the E4 path or by a small ferry (converted fishing boat). The boat leaves at 11.00 am each day and takes about 15 minutes, returning at 5.00 pm. The ferryman doesn't wait! The walk can be very hot! My correspondents walked it once and left at about 9.30 am. Good shoes are needed as the path can be a bit rough with quite steep drops to the sea. The exercise was welcome after just sunbathing for 4 days. The sea was quite cold when my contributors were there in late May early June. The mentioned fishing boat also commutes from Chora Sfakion. It departs there at 10:30 and goes back from the beach at 4.30 pm. The boat from Loutro now costs 3.5 Euros.  The captain of the boat from Chora Sfakion to Sweetwater Beach waits for customers at Hotel Xenia in Chora Sfakion. It is the last hotel on the left of Chora Sfakion as you face the town from the sea. That is the side farthest from the bus stop. Ask for him at that hotel. The boat leaves at 10:30 am.

Sweetwater is famous for its goats. Apparently, if you feed them, they will lay down next to you and spend the day just like a loyal dog. They also accept petting. They can be a nuisance, however.

One of the campers has installed a faucet so it is now possible to get goat-free spring water.

A report from June 1999 describes this as a very special beach. It is still completely nude except at the taverna on the western end. More people here now than last year, including several campers. A great experience.

Shade is hard to find, so be sure to bring a good sun block. This is especially true because the boats that are the only easy way of leaving only go in late afternoon. The beach can get very hot because of its situation between rock walls.

A report from June 2000 confirms the impressions above. My contributor gave the beach a 100% rating!  Relaxed atmosphere and not too crowded. 90% nudist away from the taverna.

The goats are still there. Be careful of small landslides caused by the goats walking up the very steep cliff behind the beach. My contributor saw such a landslide send a 2 foot diameter boulder close by a sunbathing couple. Another contributor from 2004 recommends keeping well away from the cliffs, because of constantly falling stones.

Not everyone enjoys the beach. One report described a continuous stream of walkers on the footpath which disturb the serenity. But reports from 2004 and 2005 confirm the relaxed, laid-back atmosphere, and the good snorkelling.

In September 2006 the beach was completely nude bar for one couple. Approximately 40 people a day were using the beach. Also the beach bar remains a favourite haunt and provides excellent food and ice cold drinks - keep it going!

Loutro is a very pretty and not expensive village. My contributor recommends staying there, at least in September. The main town beach has stern signs saying "no topless bathing" but my contributors saw people swimming naked from the rocks at the western end of the bay. Likewise, they themselves swam naked from a small stony beach about 1km west of Loutro.  A report from September 2002 says this beach was fantastic, with almost all of the people nude.

Barefoot reporters who visited in September 2006 thought Sweetwater offered the best combination of benefits – water transport to & from Loutro & Chora Sfakion, a limited taverna, lovely water and plenty of room. The tale about the goat is still true!

And other Barefooters who visited in 2007 found Sweetwater amongst the most beautiful beaches on Crete.   You can find almost only naturist people on the beach, and there is a small floating summer cafe at the west end of the beach. Just lovely.

Marmara beach

My contributor spent four days in Loutro in April 2000. One day they walked the 45 minute walk westwards to Marmara Beach. This is a beautiful little beach of fine pebbles surrounded by marble cliffs situated where the Aradena Gorge reaches the sea. When they got there there was just one other person there, nude, so they took the chance and stripped off. In the following hours more and more people came, among them many families with children.

Many kept their swimsuits on at first, but as the day wore on more and more people stripped off, and in the early afternoon the beach must have been almost 50% nude. The presence of many children made the atmosphere very innocent and pleasant, despite the fact that some of the textiles obviously disliked the nudity.

The swimming is great, there was a nice breeze coming down from the gorge, and there is a taverna on the cliff to the western side of the beach. All in all a very pleasant beach experience!

A report from June 2001 speaks of the possibility of hiring kayaks in Loutro and kayaking to Marmara or even Sweetwater Bay. My contributor says kayaking naked through the clear blue water is a religious experience!

This is a very small beach. The entire coast south of the beach consists of a series of rock coves and caves. They seem to be accessible only from the water. The water was warmer here, and swimming was ok with rocks to look at.

Some guide books list this as a naturist beach, however there is now a taverna sitting above the beach accompanied by the spray painted "no nudism" signs. The signs are also painted on the adjoining rock cove/cave. One couple was in this adjoining cove and were nude.. The boat from Loutro showed up, and a half dozen people scrambled up the rocks (above the beach) presumably to strip.

A less encouraging report from summer 2002 suggests, however, that naturists are being asked by taverna man to move to the nearby rocks when he took money for the umbrellas.  The rocks were full of naked people.

A Barefoot reporter who visited in 2007 was disappointed by this beach and the signs saying "no nudism".  It is a small beach and, he thought, not worth visiting compared with some other lovely beaches mentioned in the Guide.  Other reports would be welcome.

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GAVDOS ISLAND

Gavdos is a small island opposite Chora Sfakion. There have been reports of high percentages of nudity on the beaches there for some time, but a contributor has sent some very interesting details of the situation on Gavdos during the summer of 2005, in particular as regards the best known naturist beach, Ag. Ioannis, and a nearby less frequented one, Lavrakas.

AG. IOANNIS

This is on the north side of Gavdos, facing Crete. To get there, take the boat from Chora Sfakion to Gavdos. Board the community bus from the tiny port to Ag. Ioannis (roughly once every hour). The bus passes from Sarakiniko beach (now lost to "civilization") and continues on a gravel road until it reaches a taverna/mini-market. This is the campers’ sole source of water, food and supplies. Ag Ioannis beach is a further 15 min walk towards the west (keeping the sea to the right).

My contributor rates this as definitely one of the top 3 beaches he has ever visited (including the Caribbean and Red Sea). He is not alone; other reporters have listed it as their favourites.  It’s about 500 meters long, and quite wide. The water is crystal clear with blue-green hues and it's all sandy at the bottom. If you start walking towards the back of the beach, the first 20 meters are flat sand, then there are sand dunes with cedar trees, then pine trees and rocky cliffs towards the back of the beach. In some ways it reminds him of Elafonissos. There are dozens of old cedars one can use as shade. People on the beach are usually friendly (if you make the first step), but he suggests you keep your money on you - a waist pouch is very useful.

Ag. Ioannis gets crowded during the last week of June until the 15th of August. People even set up tents in the blazing sun in the middle of the beach. Best time would be before or after that.

Nudism can be as low as 70% during peak period, but is close to 100% at all other times.

LAVRAKAS

This is to the west of Ag. Ioannis. There are two ways to get there from Ag. Ioannis:
1) Follow the coast. My correspondent’s preferred route. It takes about 30 minutes. You have to go waist deep into water at some point, but it's ok if you travel light. You can only take this route when the weather is good.

2) Climb up the rocks at the back of Ag. Ioannis and follow the paths. People on the beach should be able to provide instructions. Ask someone who goes there often (you can tell by their living quarters). It takes about 30-40 minutes if you don't get lost. My correspondent did, but it was very easy to find his way. It's a small island after all, and Crete is always visible so you know which way is North!

In terms of natural beauty this beach is not as good as Ag. Ioannis, but there are other things to make up for that. It's a flat beach with cedars, but the number of good spots to set up a tent is limited to maybe a dozen. Access to the sea is also somewhat limited, as you have to find a passage between the big rocks. It's great for snorkelling though! The best thing on Lavrakas is the well. A couple who stayed there for some time dug a well about 2 meters deep, which lets you access fresh, chilled, drinkable water! You still have to go 45 minutes to get food from the taverna/minimarket (and another 45 to come back), but if you plan right and you cook your food you can last for a week easily.

My correspondent left Ag. Ioannis when the crowds hit that beach (early August) and went to Lavrakas. Needless to say, it's not affected by the waves of tourists, since access is not easy. However, he met people from Ag. Ioannis who made the trip daily to get fresh water, but that's hardly a problem.

Nudism: everyone swims naked; maybe a few go around the beach with a piece of cloth round their waist.

 

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