Last updated 20 August 2008

The island has had a surge of popularity as a result of the book and film of "Captain Corelli's Mandolin". Ernle Bradford's Guide to the Greek Islands talks about an idyllic beach with orange sand. Other guides mention long lonely stretches and 3 kilometre runs of sand.

An innovation in recent years has been the foundation of a new naturist resort (Vassiliki Naturist Club) near the village of Spartia.  You can read reports from visitors here. 

Kefalonia highlights

Xi beach

The area is the south of the Pali peninsula, the one with Lixouri on it. South and South West of the town are three beaches, connected to each other, with the western one called Xi beach.

About 1.5km before Xi beach the road forks out to the left and right with signs all indicating 'Xi beach'. Take the right, park at the end of the road and walk right (when facing the sea) along the narrow beach towards the rocks. The first rock is easily walked round as it is shallow sea with sandy floor. Walking around the second rock is a bit tricky as again it is shallow water but part of it is rocky (rather huge pebbles) You are rewarded with a beautiful sandy beach - best part half way across.

The first time my contributors visited they drove north from Argostoli round the coast, about an hour the 2nd time we took the car on the ferry (crossing 25 minutes) to the peninsula from Argostoli to Lixouri, runs hourly, and then it was only a 10 minutes drive to Xi.

The hotel is right on the beach and there is a collection of loungers, sea scooter hire centre, taverna, etc, and hundreds of people. Going east along the orange sand, they got that detail right, the crowds thin out but you can see the next sun lounger, boat hire, taverna, etc with a steady procession of people walking up and down the foreshore.

The beach is backed by low grey clay cliffs and is, basically, a popular featureless long stretch of sand. It shelves gently with slippery flat rock off shore and limited snorkelling possibilities. It is a beach for families who like socialising on the sand.

It is no place for idyllic or secluded nude sun bathing and swimming. Going nude is possible but hardly enjoyable. (One contributor who visited in October 2003 said they felt a bit like a tourist attraction for textiles when we stripped off on the east end of Xi.)

However, correspondents who visited in September 1999 walked to the end of the Xi beach going WEST (not east), then climbed over a little hill (there is a very narrow path) and discovered a wonderful beach, some 1000-1500 m long, under high cliffs (30-50 m) completely separated by that hill and the cliffs (see picture). They were the only human beings there and nude bathing and walking was ideal. The sand is orange, the water very clear. It seems unlikely that the beach is very crowded in high season, because it's accessible only by that narrow path over the little hill. Absolutely no signs of sun loungers, parasols, taverna or anything like that. A report from July 2001 says that on two visits my contributors had the beach to themselves apart from one or two textiles. As well as the main road to the beach, there is another road that leads to the western end, making the walk much shorter.

The beach has dark orange sand, is very gently shelving, with a calm, warm sea and very safe (good for those who are not strong swimmers). When we visited, we walked to the western end (turn right on the beach). On my contributors' first time there, they were able to strip off at the end of the beach, backed by the cliff. However the beach was quite quiet as it was a windy day but to their delight we found that we were out of the wind here and the sea was calm. My correspondents were told by their local waiter that this is one beach which is always okay even on windy days. On our return the next week, they would not have felt comfortable on the main beach as there were more people so they walked on, round the next small bay which collects seaweed and then paddled round the rocky point (only about a foot deep) to the next bay. Initially they had this bay to themselves, but they were later joined by a naturist man and his costumed partner. A local fisherman walked past to his boat and took no notice of them. They felt very relaxed there.

In July 2005 a couple following the same directions again paddling around the foot of the cliffs in 30cms of water found the beach to be private and eventually textile free - when the one clothed couple stripped off and joined the rest of the beach. The only reported downside is that the sea is too shallow, you have to go a long way out for a swim!

A couple who visited in July 2004 found it quite relaxed in a clothing optional area of the beach. Take the right hand fork signed to Xi (so is the left!) and park at the end of the road by the taverna. Walk to the right past the sun loungers, after a few hundred yards there is an area below tall cliffs; these are unstable, and there are many recent rockfalls, so walk past here to the area where the cliffs are lower. This is a pleasant stretch of sand, where there were three naturist groups. About mid afternoon, the naturists were joined by about half a dozen textiles, none of whom showed any sign of objection. There are a few pebbles at the edge of the sea, which is very shallow for quite a long way out. Very pleasant: if you rub the red sand all over your body, it is supposed to make you 20 years younger!

Sad news from June 2006: the reported beaches on the west side of the main beach were destroyed by storms in early 2006. They are now only 1-2 metres between the seafront and the rocks. There not enough place to lay down. On the main beach sunbeds and umbrellas - no nudity.

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Petani

Also on the peninsula is Petani beach on the west coast, about a 20 minutes drive from the ferry at Lixouri. Look out for the sign to Petania in Greek.

A very winding, steep road down to this beach which has a lovely setting with a backdrop of mountains. At the bottom of the road, turn right and park by the boats.  A short walk North (turn right) takes you to very quiet pebbly beach with large boulders and rocks providing good privacy. Good for swimming and snorkelling.

The beach was mainly a mix of fine stones and pebbles although my contributors were able to find a sandy area towards the rear of the beach for more comfortable lazing. There were a few naturists situated at the southern end of this beach (turn left on reaching the beach). We were sufficiently away from the sunbeds and textiles to feel comfortable here. The sea here was very clear and calm but fairly quickly shelving. Jelly shoes recommended. This report dates from June 2001.

A report from July 2004 says this a a really lovely beach: much nicer than Myrtos, although in a similar setting. Cross the ferry from Argostoli to Lixouri (€3.60 car, €1.20 passenger...get up to the top deck of the ferry - marvellous views across the Bay of Argostoli!) Turn left on arriving at the beach, walk about 150 yards past the sun loungers, and there are a reasonably large number of naturists with a few textiles scattered in between. Absolutely lovely! The weather in July 2004 helped: glorious sun, warm sea - 95% - would be more if not for the narrow, winding roads.

Barefooters who visited in 2006 did not find it as idyllic as earlier reporters; although very scenic the beach is stony with little sand.  My reporters established themselves in a small stony cove at the northern and and went nude.  Others found it too crowded to be nude in August 2007.

Other Barefooters who visited Petani in June 2008 confirm that naturism is practised on the left side of the beach when facing the sea.  They say snorkelling brilliant, but they advise getting there early as textiles use this area too and first there decides the order of the day.  The beach has some shade most of the day due to the cliff behind.  Take jelly shoes or similar as pebble beach. 

Agia Kyriaki -  described by Barefoot reporters as a moderate beach - a series of small bays.  Sounds as if nudity may sometimes be possible.

 

MYRTOS BEACH

Myrtos is one of the most famous, and frequently photographed, beaches in Greece.  It is about three quarters of the way north up the west side of Cephalonia. You turn off the road between Agostoli and Fiskardo at a well marked junction and go downhill for about two to three kilometres using a tarred road with hairpin bends. It drops quite steeply downhill, becomes a track and then debouches onto the shingle beach with parking areas at the rear of the beach either side of a snack bar.

Featured on many a picture postcard, this scenic beach has a lovely setting of a mountain backdrop but is quite a drive from most holiday accommodation areas - the nearest about 10 kms away is Agia Efimia. From the main western coast road, it is signposted as 4 kms. The road is good but take it steadily, as it is steep and winding. Turn right (northwards) when reaching the white shingle beach, to join other naturists at the end of the bay. When my contributors visited (June 2001) there were 7 other naturist couples and it felt very comfortable. A report from July 2001 says that the northern end was un-crowded and 100% naturist.

The beach is situated at the rear of a wide inlet backed by steeply sloping cliffs with piles of scree below them from which the almost white shingle comes. The beach shelves steeply so that large waves form. There have been people drowned here because of 8 feet high waves crashing onto the shingle.

So flip flops or jelly shoes are a must. Parasols and sun loungers can be hired for around 3 euro per person.

The beach is 90% textile with nudism practised at the northern end where there are a few large rocks (turn right at the bottom of the road to park nearer the CO end). There are topless bathers elsewhere. At the southern end there is a cave but no easily reachable boulders. I dare say suited bathers wouldn't mind if you stripped off but it would not feel comfortable.

There is a beach bar in the middle of the beach that has been noisy in the past. Nearby there are some toilets and some showers (free) to rinse off after a hard days lounging,

As the beach faces west it receives the sun virtually all day long and the sunsets can be stunning!. The surrounding cliffs provide shelter from the wind and it seems a good place for sunning oneself. The cliffs also prevent any gawkers from above.

One couple revisited Myrtos in July 2004, and walked to the right, where "we were the only naturists present. Felt very comfortable: the beach was very un crowded, with the nearest textiles about 80 yards away. Very scenic, but beach very shingley: stony access to sea makes getting into the water difficult." (Getting out can be very difficult too when the waves pick up be aware and stay safe! Ed.)

During 2005 reports indicate that naturists still occupy the North end of the beach, the noise, if any, from the Beach bar was never a problem and the showers on the beach were an absolute boon before rushing off to catch the flight home

Myrtos it is mainly for people wearing swimming costumes and it's shingle, but even so, my contributors for 2005 gave it 8 out of 10.

A report from June 2005 speaks of the north end of the beach being occupied by a dozen or so couples enjoying the sun, very relaxed and comfortable. No Noise from the bar and stunning sunsets.

A couple of Barefooters who visited in July 2006 were surprised that probably the most photographed beach on the island had a thriving naturist section. Whilst they were there the far right of the beach was almost exclusively naturist and spread quite a long way towards the textile main part. Although the beach is primarily shingle and the water is a bit lively the location is superb and a good time was had.

Other Barefooters were not so lucky in August 2007 - they found the beach crowded and nudity impossible.  But a more promising report comes in during June 2008; nudism was still practised at the northern end.  Snorkelling was quite good but access to the water could be awkward when the sea is rough.

North of Agia Efimia on the east coast are several pebbly beaches accessible by boat. Motor boats can be hired by the day from two companies at between 50 and 70 euros per day depending on engine size, fuel extra. The beaches consist of large pebbles and shelve steeply into the water around the sides down to about 5 metres then flattening out. Swimming is safe but there can be a surge if the weather has been stormy. If you get there early enough you can have the beach to yourself. The only problem is that you have to return the boat by 6.00pm.

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KIMILIA

A small beach in between Dafnoudi beach and Emblisi beach. The walk from Emblisi beach is no more than 15 minutes. There is no sign from Emblisi beach but you can see the path on the hill.  Go left to the hill and pass through the forest. If you walk along the coast there is a nice space on the rock at the end of Emblisi beach.   At Kimilia many young Greeks and tourists are there from the morning until the evening 100% with no clothes. The rock is easy to lay down and easy to get to swim. Avoid on August too many family and tourists.


West and East of Fiskardo

There are a series of inlets most of which have small shingle beaches at their head. Most of them are hard to reach from unmapped tracks by unmapped trails so access by boat is the practical alternative.

Outboard motor driven boats can be hired in Fiskardo and from Agia Efimia for between 50 and 70 euro a day, petrol extra. Don't forget the boats have to be returned by 18:00 each day!

All the beaches are shingle and the default for swimming and bathing is to wear costumes. But get there first or find a deserted one and clothes can become very optional indeed. None of the beaches have any facilities so you need to bring in food, drink and anything else you need.

There are three inlets to the west. The western-most one, in the inlet to the west of the one with apartments going up on its eastern headland, is as good as any of the others. There are spots of oil on the shingle. Some form of footwear is recommended as the shingle is large and it helps you avoid the prickly sea urchins. There is also a cave to explore and a rusty bike planted on a rock.

There are three or four inlets to the east of Fiskardo. The one past the island has the cleanest shingle, the clearest water, the least sea urchins and, for the adventurous, diving off the rocks at the side.

Sailing the boat with nothing on is great and if you find a nice deserted shingle beach the day becomes very nice indeed. The island has a chapel on it, unlocked when we were there, but landing is tricky. We found an inlet, a micro-inlet, on the Ithaca side of it.

Four out of ten for the beach, six out of ten for the boating...

AGHIOS KIRIAKIS

The causeway across Argostoli bay was closed in July 2004, so my contributors had to drive around the bay and head up towards Myrtos.

After about 6 miles, the road forks left for Lixouri and right for Myrtos; follow the right fork and then turn left, following the sign for Aghios Kiriakis beach. The beach is a long strip of sand and shingle, divided into small and large coves, with a track running the length of the beach. Follow the road for about 1 1/2 miles down to the sea, then turn right onto the beach road.

Follow until about 400 yards from the end, where there is a snack bar and a number of people. Here the beach was deserted, and there was plenty of room to park the car beside the track. The beach appeared to be used mainly by the locals, but my contributors felt comfortable, although they were the only naturists. Pretty setting, but not a marvellous beach.

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SKALA

Skala has for many years boasted an unofficial but de facto naturist beach a short walk from the main town, screened by rocks from the main beach.   Unfortunately there is bad news about this little paradise.  In early summer 2003 numerous reports have reached the Captain of repeated police raids during which naturists have been required to dress and threatened with prosecution.  Apparently these raids have even made Greek TV news.

This follows the appearance in early 2002 of signs purporting to prohibit nudity, and reports of a local resident threatening the nudists with dogs.

Reports in 2005 indicate that the policy of making life uncomfortable for nude sun-worshipper on the main beach has been successful. As one correspondent put it "we found better beaches elsewhere".

More recent reports posted on the Barefoot Forum lead the Captain to understand that there have been more frequent police raids and other unpleasantness.  Although the Captain has also received a number of reports (including some from July 2008) according to which as many as 15 or 20 naturist couples have continued to use the beach around the headland from the main Skala beach without incident, it is hard to give Skala an unqualified recommendation now.  The reports below should be read on that basis.

A report from late 2005 says that the rocky (and cramped) area which was used by Naturists after the signs banning nudism appeared on the beach previously favoured by so many has now been destroyed by a rock fall which has covered the entire area. Whether out of sympathy or (more likely) for socio-economic reasons, the two signs nearest to the rocky area have been removed, and when my reporters were there in September, there were some 20 couples back on the beach occupying the 200 metres or so to the south of the rocky area. It remains to be seen whether this continues, whether the dispensation is rescinded or whether this is the beginning of a move to rescind the entire ban. But reports from 2006 suggest that naturism was still being practised regardless. 

The Captain has received some reports saying that the "no nudism" signs have been removed, others saying that they are either still there or have been replaced.  Barefooters who visited in May 2007 have told me that the "no nudism" signs have been moved up the beach towards Mounda Bay and that Skala was being well used for naturism.  The beach has also been cleaned up considerably.  Several similar reports comes in from June 2008, with typically 15-20 couples using the beach.

This l-o-n-g beach is in the extreme south of Kefalonia by the town of the same name. Drive to the sea front, turn west and find a spot to park under trees on the sea front. The beach is in front of you. This is the main beach for the town with sand, sun loungers and pedalos. There are cafes and tavernas behind the beach. Shoulder your gear and walk west towards a headland some fifteen minutes away with large rocks on the beach and in the water. The naturist section starts and is concentrated here.

The sand is delightful and, like the water, clean. The waves are slight as the beach doesn't shelve at all steeply. Continuing westwards towards another headland the beach becomes a little shingly but is still naturist.

At the headland low rocky spurs go out to sea and beach gives way to flattish rocks and a cave. Continue round to gain another fine strand stretching away into the distance. This can also be treated as a naturist area with a suited section starting some ten minutes walk away.

The Captain himself visited Skala in July 1998 and thought it an absolutely gorgeous naturist beach. Apart from the walk, naturists had the best portion of this lovely beach.

The Captain hears that there is a brand new sign saying "Beach SPITHOI" with an arrow showing to the right part of the beach which is after the rocks you see on the picture.  Most reports suggest that nudism can be practised comfortably here..

MOUNDA

East of Katelios are Kaminia and Potomakia which are collectively known as Mounda. As reported above there is a rocky outcrop south of Skala at Cape Mounda where naturists congregate and it is possible to scramble from Katelios to Skala along the beach. (The "Beach SPITHOI"  of Scala at the headland?)

.It is also accessible a short drive from Skala: Take the road out towards Argostoli and after a short while, there is a sign for Mounda Beach on the left. Follow this past the Mounda Beach Hotel and then, just past the Marina Bay Hotel, park wherever you can and walk along the beach to the left. Eventually, (5 minutes or so) you will have left the textiles far enough behind to disrobe. (2005)

Barefooters who visited in July 2007 followed signs for the beach off the Ratzikli to Scala road. Headed down to the Hotel at the bottom, and before turning along the sea track toward Ratzikli/Katelios, they parked next to a small church. Plenty of space to park.

Sunbeds were immediately in front, and were often busy, but they headed south (left), keeping the sea on their right and headed toward the very southern tip of the Island. After about 800 metres the beach was fairly clear, and was generally only ever visited by other naturists. They settled at different spots all along this stretch. There was never anyone else within 50 metres, and a full mixture of "types": couples mainly, the odd single male, plus a full group of six people, 3 couples! Could be anything between 4 couples or 20 couples/singles depending on the day. They quite happily stayed from 10am until 9pm. It can get hot, so a brolly was useful. The sand was soft , and shelved slowly into the sea No need for footwear either, as the sea bed was all sand. All in all, excellent.

Kamina is a great shallow sandy beach that is popular with families and the beach is backed by new developments which threaten to spoil the area. Consequently there are also sunbeds and parasols here. A report from June 2008 confirms this report. 

Potomakia was the best spot for unabashed naturism (July 2001) and several couples were seen here evey day. These are either walkers from Skala or like my contributor from Katelios. The beach can be reached by road down from Ratzakli to Kaminia then walk east beyond the sunbeds. However there is a new hotel development that has gouged out a new road in the cliff and destroyed a large section of the sand dunes that back this beach. The best way to walk to Potomakia from Katelios is NOT along the road as it takes an hour and a half but along the beach.

Despite the fears surrounding police activities at nearby Skala, Potomakia had a steady stream of naturists in August 2003.  This clean and pleasant beach with sand which gently shelves into warm shallow sea is excellent. The gentle, cooling sea breeze also makes it the perfect spot for sun worshipping.  In addition to my contributor and his partner, there were several families and numerous couples on the days they spent at Potomakia beach. 

Walking along the front at Katelios there is a clearly marked trail to the Turtle Beach over the headland. Its not for the fainthearted but reasonably easy for the experienced walker.

It should be noted that both Kaminia and Potomakia are nesting beaches for the Loggerhead Turtle and there is a local pressure group trying to halt the developments along this section of beach. Turtles used to nest at Skala but have been driven away by the developments there and locals whilst keen to enjoy the fruits of tourism are also anxious to conserve the Loggerhead Turtle. To that end illegal camping is discouraged and anyone doing so will be targeted by the Katelios Conservation Group, they also regularly patrol the beach to discourage beach barbeques and leaflet the sunbed users to educate them about the disturbance of the turtle nests. If parasols MUST be used only insert them into the beach near the water line. It is preferable not to use them at all. Also please take all litter away and knock down any sandcastles prior to leaving the beach. This beach has the potential as a great naturist site as by their very nature people who like to go nude do so because of their appreciation of the environment. If more naturists use this beach it may affect the development plans of hoteliers etc...

During June 2005 the beach was almost empty from the Marina Bay Hotel to the promontory at the "Skala" end of the beach. Just the occasional nude couple scattered along the entire length of this stretch of sand.

Barefooters who visited Kafalonia in June 2008 confirm that naturism is still popular at the eastern end of Mounda Bay.

Koroni

This beach (first included in the Guide in June 2003) is delightful with very fine gold sand several metres into the sea. The first day my contributors visited there were only two other couples, both naked. Other people visited throughout the day but at maximum 8 couples, no taverna and on the first day no sunbeds, however we visited three days later and shock horror brand new sunbeds had appeared, but these were close to the entrance and walking past them there was plenty of room to be far away from them and again not many visitors but no doubt this may change as the beach gets to be known.

To find, drive from Argostoli direction towards Skala through the village of Platies. Where the main road forks for Skala to the right and Poros to the left take the right fork, 400yards there is another fork and take the right off the main road and go immediately right again onto a track, beach is signed Koroni. Carry on the track all the way down for approximately 3 miles. It gets steep but is driveable even in a small car.  There is parking at the beach and walk right to the other end.  My contributor rates the beach 70%.

A June 2006 report says that the road down to the beach has been repaired, several people went down with a small car.

The beach is signposted from the main road ... but keep your eyes peeled or you'll miss it; the sign is very small.

The beach was by no means crowded, however, there were a row of umbrellas and sunbeds occupied by a number of textile couples and families.  My contributors staked their claim to the far end of the beach and stripped for an afternoon of sun bathing. This was met with indifference by most and mild curiosity by others.

Halfway through the afternoon, a small motorised dinghy arrived carrying three men and two women. One guy was naked ... This was the only other nudist activity we witnessed on our visit to Koroni Beach.

My contributor would highly recommend this beautiful secluded beach, which is only let down by difficult access (however this well may be a blessing !)

But the signs are not good for this wonderful beach because the owner of the sunbeds and umbrellas planned open a kiosk for cold drinks, coffees etc in 2004. Also the road is going to be better and signed for those who don't know how to reach that beach.  And some reports find it 100% textile.

This report from August 2004:  The track down to the beach is bad, but can, with care, be driven by a small car - we did. The beach was deserted on our arrival at about 10.00am, apart from a badly corroded sign which stated "No caravans, no nudists". We could not imagine anyone being stupid enough to try and take a caravan down the track, and so decided that the originator of the sign must have been mad, and therefore ignored the latter part. About 8-10 sunbeds in the middle of the beach, but although we were there all day, only one of them got used. Several other naturists couples at left hand end of beach, but cliffs are very unstable, and care is needed.  Very pretty, very relaxed, no facilities.

In June 2006 there was a small kiosk and sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. Only topless on the sunbeds, 1 German naturist family at the east end of the beach in the afternoon.

In August 2007, Barefooters found a small bar and sunbeds ... my reporters walked to the far side of the bar and stripped off. They were the only nudists with a lot of Greek families, who came near us to make mud masks from the rocks behind them - not very comfortable.

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KATELIOS

On the road from Skala to Argostoli pass the village of Ratzakli in a few kilometres and then find the signed turn off for Katelios beach. Go down a couple of kilometres of track to reach the beach which is signed 'Nude Bathing Forbidden.' Return to the road disheartened.

The beach has a snack bar and is sand with small waves. It would be nice if only ... but it isn't.

That said ... apparently, in August 98 at least one totally nude couple spent most of each day at the north end of this beach sunbathing, swimming and lying on inflatables in the sea without being bothered. Who knows: a bit of nude colonisation, perhaps? Can we put up some resistance to the textile domination?
 

DAFNOUDI Beach

Go south from Fiskardo on the main road and in a couple of kilometres or less come to a turning to Dafnoudi Beach just before the village of Antipata Eristou. Follow the new road to within a few hundred metres of the end. Look for a sign DAFNOUDI on the right indicating the footpath to the beach. It is a lovely walk through the woodland, about 20 mins.

The inlet is about 30 metres across and medium to large shingle. There are no facilities. You may be visited by boats. Previous reports suggested that this beach may be suitable for nudism, but recent correspondents reported textiles only there, so they felt unable to strip off.

TRAPEZAKI BEACH

There are mixed reports about this beach. The prevailing view is that it is a lovely beach but it is now so "developed" that there are few if any naturists.

The best approach for this beach is from Lourdas. drive down hill 2km to the tavernas at the bottom, turn right past the "blue sea" taverna, also past the car park. drive to the end of the track approx 400 yrds and park.  After parking, look straight ahead to a gate way, which looks like its a private house, but has in fact a taverna in the garden.  Walk past the taverna and through the gate other side. turn left to beach and down slight slope on to beach. the other way is along the beach but are near lethal rocks, so the first way is recommended.  Walk past the second rock outcrop to the nude area.

It is joined to Lourdas beach to the east and the beaches have a combined length of about 2.5 miles. There are sunbeds on the easterly mile and a bit and on the western mile and both these areas were entirely textile. Naturist bathing is possible on the middle section (an earlier correspondent described it as "heaven, all nude, good sand, clean water, gorgeous"). 

A report from May 2001 says you need to walk a considerable distance from either Lourdas or Trapezaki along the beach to about mid point between the two resorts. Well worth it if you have the stamina and like relatively isolated beaches. Mixture of textiles and naturists coexisting happily. Mostly early thirties and older couples. May be overlooked by local farmers in fields behind and also a few walkers. It can get very hot so bring own shade.

I'm grateful to Terry (see Terry Naturist Diary) for the story that follows and for the picture of Trapzaki beach. Terry and his companion visited in July 2000 walked the entire length of the 2.5km beach between Trapezaki and Lourdas. Except for a 200 metre section rather nearer to the latter than the former it was entirely covered by sunbeds and umbrellas. By the end of the week even that virgin section had been filled in!! Unlike other resorts these were fairly well spaced out and priced at 2000 Dms (£4) per day. But it's not all bad news. Beginning at the Trapezaki end of the beach and walking towards Lourdas it soon became apparent that the odd nude couple were interspersed between the others along the whole length of the beach except for the parts nearer the tavernas at each extremity. Not only that, the man collecting the money for the umbrellas was as happy to take money from nudists as textiles. As he appears to be the only authority on the beach it is safe to assume that nudity is not a problem.

What was quite clear was that when going to the beach only the occasional couple were naked but on leaving they always seemed to have been joined by others!! On any given day nudity seemed to vary between about 10 and 20% of beach users. The beach although well used was never really busy with plenty of room and those sun umbrellas were spaced about 10 -15 yards apart.

My contributors used a 'bay' about halfway along the beach and on the first day were the only nudists there, by the end of the week we were up to half a dozen or so. As they were all leaving on the same weekend my contributor hoped that someone else maintains the tradition. The Captain does too.

The beach is of relatively clean sand although we did have a small amount of oil tar pollution coming ashore on one afternoon. The sea also appeared clean and clear with frequent dips a necessity for cooling the skin at short and regular intervals.

Contributors who visited in July 2001 parked at Trapezaki and set off east along the beach and settled in the third bay which was deserted but for one other naturist couple. As the first beach has stones that are tiring to walk over, it is better to take a path behind the taverna which leads down to the 2nd bay. At the end of that bay it is necessary to walk over rocks to reach the 3rd bay of gritty sand with rocks in the sea. They spent a quiet afternoon here and were fascinated to see a turtle swimming in the sea. At the end of the afternoon, a local shepherd drove his sheep from the hill behind them onto the beach and right past them. He seemed quite unperturbed by their lack of attire and gave them a friendly greeting. There were further bays beyond on the way to Lourdas it would also be possible approach from that direction too. There were folded beach umbrellas on our beach with no sign of usage but an indication that at the height of the season, this beach might become textile.

About half way along the village road at the top of the cliff there is a signpost for the "Lithero" taverna. There is a very steep track down to the taverna (we never risked driving down though others did). At the taverna walk west towards Trapezaki. The first section of this beach is textile/topless, but beyond the first set of rocks we found a quieter area where topless/nude bathing was acceptable. The beach is coarse sand or very small pebbles. There is a steep shelf to begin with in the water but it quickly becomes shallow again. My contributors spent a very enjoyable fortnight here in mixed textile/nude company without any problems (July 2002). This beach would have gotten a 100% rating if not for the difficult access.

A 2003 correspondent  also add that when they were there, in June, they found it "uncrowded; usually around a dozen or so couples, mainly the older generation." Throughout the day a number of textiles do walk along the beach (on what is a pleasant beach walk from Trapazaki to Lourdata) but they certainly did not find this off-putting.  In fact they found it pleasant to see that some young couples, after their all too apparent amazement at the scene, actually stripped off and joined the club;. There were just a few sunbeds/sunbrollies well spread out along the beach (Euro7 for 2 beds +brolly).

Barefooters who visited in July 2007 enjoyed a couple of happy naked days on Trapezaki beach too.  As others have said, you need to get yourself about halfway between the beach at Trapezaki, parking by the small fishing boats, and the Lourdas beaches.  They felt that this beach did not provide the same sense of freedom found at Mounda.

Another access to the same beach "approach for this beach is from Loudres. drive down hill 2km to the tavernas at the bottom, turn right past the "Blue Sea" taverna, also past the car park. drive to the end of the track (approx 400 m) and park, we were there in July 2005 and had no problems parking over the 4 days we visited which included Saturday and Sunday. after parking, look straight ahead to a gate way, which looks like its a private house, but has in fact a taverna in the garden.  Walk pass taverna and through the gate other side. turn left to beach and down slight slope on to beach. the other way is along the beach but are near lethal rocks , so first way is recommended, .walk past the second rock outcrop to nude area. This reporter describes things in the same way as our 2003 correspondents and speaks of 4 pleasant days spent on the beach in the company of other nudists. 

My correspondents also walked one evening to the beach below the Theotoku Sission Monastery 2.5 mile to the east of Lourdas beach. The Captain thinks this beach is called Paradisi. The monastery beach was deserted and the swimming good. Other reports from summer 2001 confirms that this beach is good for nudity and much of the time deserted. A car can be left at the new monastery building Theotokou Mission about half way up and then its a steep walk down a track that has been carved out of the hillside.

The path down to this beach is extremely difficult and care needs to be taken on the loose shale. However the beach is fantastic and the flowers on the cliffs behind in May are extremely colourful. My contributor spent two idyllic days here with only two other couples on the beach. The sea can be rocky in places but use the centre section and its pretty clear. This is the place to enjoy a really quiet days of sheer naked joy!

Barefoot visitors in August 2007 found it 70-80% nudist and very comfortable.

Lourdas itself is a slowly developing resort, mostly based on self-catering apartments. On a steep hill so being fit and or car hire is important. Highly recommended as a quiet place to stay and ideal to explore the rest of the island.

My contributors last visited Lourdas in 1999, when the 300 yds of the east end of the beach were entirely naturist. Not so in July 2004: sunbeds reach right up to the end of the usable terrain. Having chosen to stay at Lourdhata because of the supposedly naturist beach, we were deeply disappointed - as (we assume) were the several other people who appeared to be looking for somewhere to take their clothes off. Nothing at Lourdas, but walk to the west (right of the beach) for 15 minutes, and there are several sandy bays which are populated by naturist, and are really lovely.

In August 2004 Trapezaki was packed solid with sunbeds and umbrellas: no chance of any naturism here!  However, a long walk towards Lourdas brings you to another sort of beach entirely. The walk takes about 20-25 minutes, and there are several lots of difficult rocks to struggle over. It is far easier to approach from Lourdas.

Here there are several small sandy coves, up to 100 m long, with several other naturists. There are a few straggling sunbeds - some used by naturists - the people who collect the fees do not seem to object at all. Kayaks are available for hire, and seemed only to be used by the naturists in July 2004. Lovely sandy beach, clear sea, attractive location with the mountains in the background - thoroughly recommended. But walk from Lourdas, not Trapezaki!

Kanali 

Barefoot reporters who visited in June 2008 tell me that this beach can be reached by either walking right from main Lourdas beach through a tavern and round some rocks or by walking down the low road to Trapezaki and following the track signed Kanali Beach (this is quite steep - going down is easy but going back up takes a bit longer), then turning left and going over some rocks. Some sunbeds and umbrellas.  Nice sandy beach easy access into water.  The Captain thinks this may be one of the beaches referred to above and would welcome clarification.
 

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LITHERO

Head down to Lourdas beach. Turn right at the beach along the dirt road & park just before Lithero Taverna (great grilled sardines) then walk through the taverna and carry on for about 250m where you will find what Barefooters who visited in August 2006 thought was the best beach on the island. There were about 10 nudists. It was fantastic.

A July 2007 vissitor said this was a great beach, sandy & brilliant for swimming. No problems at all going nude, either from the locals or non-nude bathers. There were nudists along the beach for approx the next 1km.
 

SISSI

To get to this beach it is necessary to drive from Lourdas toward Poros, and follow the signs for Theotoku Sissi monastery. There is now a vehicle track right down to the beach, but is only traversable by 4x4, as a spring trickles into the track about two-thirds of the way down, and the surface is very unstable. Even small cars, however, can drive about half way down - with care: the surface of the track is very poor. Those intending to walk down need to be aware that it is about 2 miles: down is not too bad, but walking up in the heat is no joke. My contributor and his wife say they are very fit (gym several times a week) but they were sorely tried.

However, the beach is lovely: three sandy bays interconnected, with a freshwater spring piped out about 8' above the middle beach - what a lovely shower! We walked to the left and were the only couple on that beach all day; a naturist couple with two children came to the middle beach, and there was one more couple on the beach to the right. The monastery at the top is fairly new, and you pass the ruins of the old monastery on the way down (or up); very, very picturesque, and worth every bit of the effort to get there.

In June 2006 my reporters said there there was only one more naturist couple, from Austria. Several small boats were passing the beach pretty close - one man tried to make a video of us (how pathetic) and the other couple from a boat so they put on their clothes for an few minutes.

Barefoot reporters tell me that as of August 2007 it's still a quiet and nudist beach: when my reporters arrived, at 14.00 pm, there were 6-8 people, 100% nudist. After an hour, two families arrived: they were all textiles, but ignored us. So they continued to feel very comfortable there.

AVITHOS /AVYTHOS

10 mins north of Trapazaki, well signposted off the main coastal road is a delightfully long and sandy beach called Avithos, which reportedly has a busy/textile Northern end with two nice tavernas, but only five minutes walk up the beach is well spread out nude bathing/swimming.

This is a lovely sandy, gently shelving beach, backed by cliffs about 30 minutes gentle walk from top end of Svoronata. There is parking at the end of the concrete road that leads to the beach where there are also 2 tavernas. Going down a slope on to the beach, there is a beach bar and sunbeds. Walk past these and towards the end of the bay where there were always a few naturists (July 2001). Walk on round a small rocky point and there is another sandy bay where more naturists collect but there are quite a lot of rocks in the sea.

Another account says that if you turn left when facing the water, after the first rocks separating the nudist section from the main beach you come across a disappointing stretch rather rocky both in the water and on the beach. If one walks further along there is a sandy part but you need to be aware of the sharp rocks in the water in this sandy cove.

One contributor preferred the end of the first bay because he felt happier swimming there.  Another (June 2003) describes this as a very gentle shelving beach into the sea with not many rocks. We were here for our last day and saw no other people until late on when a couple of single males walked past and on to the next bay and three females sunbathed (naked) at the other end of the beach near to the first set of rocks. In our opinion the best we found, clean secluded and warm.

A report from June 2002 says there was only one taverna open, but the beach is  wonderful. 

It appears nudism is allowed at both ends of this beach but my reporters found the best to be to the right.

Once you have parked at the tavernas face the beach and turn right, You will need to clamber over some rocks to find another fine deserted sandy beach.  The best part of the beach is over the next set of rocks.

On reaching the beach  if you turn right and scramble over some rocks for 30m their is another beach about 200m long with only a couple of people on it . Walk along this beach past an outcrop of rocks and you come to another 200 m of glorious beach.  During 10 visits over 2 weeks most people were nude, and on the busiest day there were only 12 people.

An alternative approach to this beach is to turn right at the hand painted sign that says Avithos Beach about 400 mts past the Go Kart track. After about 30mts go left and after another 30mts down a steep hill you will see a small area on the left hand side were you can park.  Go down the hill and on reaching the beach turn left and you will see the outcrop of rock previously described.

To drive there follow the road from Argostoli towards Skala.  Drive through Svoronata and where the road bends sharp left go strait on. Follow this road for approximately 2 miles past the go Kart track and down to the beach. Get there early for a car park space.

On reaching the beach, turn left and walk past the sunbeds to the rocky headland at the end of the beach. As on our previous visit, there were several naturist couples here, and it is a lovely setting. A good sandy beach, with clear water. Avoid going round the rocky headland: this is a rocky, uncomfortable beach with nowhere comfortable to sit or lie.

My contributors also tried the recommended beach to the right, and were very disappointed. With reference to the advice given to turn right at the hand-painted sign for Avithos, there is now an estate of new, expensive houses at the top of the beach track with nowhere to park. The track is not passable on foot or by car, as a stream has been diverted into it, making many yards of the track very deep in mud.

One 4x4 managed it, but little else. And really, the beach is not worth it: scrambling round the rocks from Avithos brings you to a good beach, but all textiles here; the beach around the next lot of rocks we found to be narrow and dirty, with a number of single nude men prowling around. We felt very uncomfortable and vulnerable - the only time in two weeks in Kefalonia, July 2004, and did not stay long.

However, Avithos itself is lovely, and the left hand end is thoroughly recommended. My contributors visited several times, and loved it.

A July 2005 report says that nude sunbathing continues on Avithos beach on the day they visited, with about 5 other couples in evidence on that occasion.

My 2006 reporters thought Avithos the best beach they encountered on Cephalonia, but they took some time to decide where to go.  They first walked east from the main beach (i.e. turned right).  The next beach was empty and not appealing as it appeared messy, with quite a build-up of seaweed.  The beach beyond was better and populated by just one nude male but later there were 5 nudes among 12 on the beach.  Sandy, spacious, good swimming.  Plenty of bars and restaurants on the main beach, but no facilities in this bay - part of the appeal of it. 

Barefooters who were there in June 2008 turned left and walked to the end of beach round the rocks and found a nice bit of sandy beach where most people were nude or with nude partners.

PALEOLINOS BEACH

Apparently this has been an accepted naturist beach for some years. From Avithos walk to the LEFT as you face the sea and walk along the sand for 10-15 minutes, past the sunbeds, and around a small outcrop of rocks. Between this and the next big rocky outcrop is Paleolinos, a small but lovely sandy beach. There are big rocks both on the sand and in the sea, though mostly it s a sandy bottom, quite gently shelving and great for swimming. The big boulders provide morning shade. You are not visible from the main Avithos beach nor from Klismata beach which is on the other side of the jumbled rocks at the far end. You used to be able to scramble over from Klismata beach (textile) to here but a recent rock fall in the winter of 2007-8 has made this very difficult.

The sand is lovely, and the water crystal clear for swimming.

Barefoot reporters visited during August 2008.  In the morning they sometimes had it to ourselves, with several couples and 2 or 3 singles arriving towards the middle of the day; reports are that it was never crowded even in the afternoons - and this was August!  All naturist, and a mix of Greeks, Dutch, Italian and English people. Textiles do walk along from Avithos but generally turn back when they find themselves among naturists! One couple settled down near us and tried naturism, we suspect for the first time, obviously enjoying the experience.
 

VASSILIKI NATURIST CLUB

The Captain learns of a new naturist resort - a rare commodity in Greece - due to open in 2007, near the village of Spartia.  For more information visit Vigla Natura. 

Barefoot reporters had this to say about Vassiliki Naturist Club in Klismata (about 15 minutes drive from Avithos beach).  It s a wonderful place for a relaxing naturist holiday. There are 11 air conditioned self-catering apartments, luxurious by general Greek accommodation standards, most with garden, mountain or sea views. Nearest textile beach is half a mile downhill, and nearest naturist beach Paleolinos. There is a pool, gardens, ample sunbeds, shady gazebos for sitting, a pool bar serving breakfast and lunch, and a dining area. It feels very remote and well off the  tourist trail  but is only 15 minutes  drive both from the airport and from Argostoli, the capital. Shops are 4 minutes away by car (mini markets) and 10 minutes to 4 supermarkets, AB being the best, and near a petrol station. A car is essential; the roads are dreadful but you get used to them in a week. Mark and Samantha, the English hosts at Vassiliki, are welcoming but not intrusive; you can join in or be as independent as you like. They do weekly barbecue evenings onsite and meze evenings at local tavernas, and boat trips to remote beaches unreachable any other way, which are naturist once the harbour is left behind. They also have a masseuse who visits weekly, and an order service for take away taverna meals. They will arrange car hire for you, and taxis to/from the airport, though we picked up our car there. Nudity is acceptable anywhere on the site and expected dawn to dusk, and during the evenings weather permitting, certainly in summer people only dressed to go out of the site!

There were mostly couples staying; we have a 12 year old and she was never bored even though she was the only child on site for the 2 weeks. We ve already booked 2 weeks next summer.  Highly recommended for discerning naturists who want to relax, chill, explore the locality, and enjoy!

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ANTISAMOS

Shooting some scenes here for the film 'Captain Corelli's Mandolin' has highlighted this lovely beach and also provided a tarmac road. In Sami, head for the harbour area. When my contributors visited there was a large square road area in front of the harbour but they were starting to build a roundabout in the middle. Go to the far south-eastern corner of this square, (top right hand end looking towards the sea) and there is a small signpost for Antisamos. Go up this narrow residential road which takes a sharp right hand turn, then at the T junction turn left and follow the road out of town, up over the hill and headland to drop down to beautiful Antisamos (about 4 kms, I would guess). On reaching the beach there is a track at the rear of the beach. Drive as far right (south) as you can go and park. You can either continue to walk south along the stony beach or take an unmade track running behind trees that front the beach. After a few minutes, where the track continues ahead and inland, there is a well-worn footpath forking left which goes down between the trees onto the naturist section of this beach.

Some naturists settle here, others make the slightly tricky clamber over large rocks to the last small bay. Sea very clear but rocky so jellies recommended. The pebbles were a bit large to lie on all day without getting a bruised bum so bring a foam mat if you have one.

The beach is made of large pebbles and stones. In June 2001 there was a lot of oil/tar on the beach. The beach is in a very nice and protected bay. The first part is completely textile, and there you can rent sun loungers and parasol. At the beach entrance there is also a small bar. The last part of the beach is very narrow with stones. This is the naturist section and there is enough room for plenty of space between sunbathers. At the very south of the beach (the last 100 m) separated from the rest by some big stones, there are very often nude people enjoying the sun and the sea. One correspondent gives this beach 8 out of 10, another 50%

Another correspondent reports seeing only two naturist couples on the south of the beach on two visits. Beyond the stones it seemed to be 100% naturist, but.....this meant both of two couples were naturist and the stones were really very difficult to cross. Although its a lovely beach, his opinion was that the shingle is very difficult to handle and for pure naturism, it leaves much to be desired. Sami, as a resort, however, is very laid back.

A report from September 2001 noted no naturists at all here. And a report from August 2004 remarked on good access (thanks to the Captain Corelli road) and very scenic, but not a comfortable beach: very rocky, with stones varying between a golf ball and a rugby ball in size. We went to the far end of the beach, where there were two or three other naturist couples, and one or two textiles. Too uncomfortable to stay for more than 2-3 hours.

On an overcast day in June 2005 there were a few nudist in the coves away from the almost deserted, but 100% textile main beach.

In August 2007 the beach was very crowded: now there is a parking place and a bar. The sunbeds are everywhere and there is a "water sports" store, which rents motorboat. A lot of sailing and yachting. Anyway, at the far end of the beach, in the cove, Barefoot reporters found another nude couple, and settled there. The only problem was that a lot of "walkers" came by.  This was no longer the quiet paradise my contributors had found as recently as 4 years ago. Nudism is possible, indeed, but it is not so quiet.

Minnies beach

Beach located at the end of the airport runway. Very quiet in September. A few rocks at first but then fine sand and gently shelving. A few naturist couples but sometimes only my reporters. The locals tend to stay at the first part of the beach.

Platia Ammos

Barefoot reporters who were there in August 2007 found this the most naturist beach on the island.  The beach was long enough to walk a discreet distance from the textiles, who tend to collect in the first half of the beach.  It was, like many island beaches, busy with Greek families on Sundays, but during the week much fewer people, mostly naked.
 

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