Last
updated 16 March 2008
Zakynthos
This island is
very popular with package tourists, the vast majority textile, with predictable
results. Some visitors who visit with naturism in mind come away
disappointed. However there are several beaches with plenty of naturist
fans, although
no guarantees that nudism is available in high season.
Melia/Dahfni
To reach this beach by car you
drive the road eastward from Argassi, after about 6-8 km and after passing
a nice taverna, very nicely situated high over the sea, turn to the right
up for a hill, marked Dahfni beach. (very hard to detect). If you miss that
way, after another two km there is another way to the right marked Melia beach.
The road to Dafni is improved this year (it has been levelled and concrete
and stone added in places) but the road to Melia is stilkl rough.
They lead to a former
(1996) taverna in the south coast. Park the car and walk eastward along
the beach around the hedge about 300 meters away. There is a wonderful beach
just under very wild and high cliffs. You still have to walk round the cliff
face to get to the beach at Melia. The beach is very little populated
and the bathing is wonderful. It is quite narrow with a limited
number of sandy areas, at most points you have to walk through stones and
rocks while entering the sea.
Alternative directions:
When going to Daphne, head for Porto Zoro on the Vasilikos peninsula. It
is signposted, but only in Greek, off on the right when driving from Argassi
towards Gerakas. You drive for about half a mile up very steep and winding
tracks (about 3km) and it's better in a 4x4. It looks as though you are driving
through someone's farmyard, but persevere.
There are three different roads off the main road road from Argassi
which all lead to the beach, however for the nearest parking to the nude
area, you will need to take the last turn off signposted on the right on a
sharp left hand turn (but road is quite rough, as they all are).
Views are breathtaking, and it's a clothes optional beach on the left
when you reach the car park. To the right are bars, etc.
There were about half
a dozen couples there and a family when my correspondent was there (June
2001), all nude. Another contributor from 2001 says the beach itself attracts
families, couples and single men, sometimes in groups. Its relaxed and unthreatening,
very little shade, and nowhere to throw rubbish. A long walk to get a drink.
Be careful about spiking umbrellas in sand, as it's a turtle nesting beach,
and spikes can damage nests (see Note from the Captain
below).
A June 2003 report described this best beach on the island for nude
sunbathing. Nude area at far left of the beach. Plenty of
couples everyday and a few nude men on their own (the far end of beach
seems to be a pick up point for gay men). Not many textiles and great for
swimming.
Be aware, though, that
like many beaches on Zakynthos the number of nudists - indeed whether there
are any at all - varies, and the Captain has had reports of no naturist activity
at all on Dahfni.
In the mornings (in August)
you can count how many turtles had coming up in the night to lay there eggs
or how many baby turtles had gone down to the water. (See
Note from the Captain further down this page).
One of my earliest contributors rated it 9 out of 10.
But reports from August
1999 suggest it was disappointing. There was a very small naturist section
at the left end of the very crowded and hard to reach beach. It was rather
dangerous to stay close to the rock fall. But if you go further to the
left, involving some "not too difficult" climbing you can find a few other
small naturist beaches. In August there were about 10 to 20 naturists there.
A report from July/August
2000 describes this as a lovely beach. Only 3 naturists including my
contributor, though. If you don't mind being in a minority, you'll enjoy
it here. Don't let the textiles worry you.
A report from September
2000 says the left end of the beach was frequented by naturists, especially
couples: few people, no more than 5 couples. The beach is beautiful but dangerous
because of falling rocks. A report from September 2001 says it is a
very narrow beach but quiet and long. A report from September 2001 said that there were only about 15 couples at any one time, the sea in front of
the beach is very safe and quiet because it is a restricted area for the loggerhead
turtles and no boats are allowed in the area. Another report from 2001 says the naturists are pushed to the far end of the
beach where the shoreline is narrow but it is certainly pleasant enough.
The naturist section was never busy, maximum around a dozen at any one
time, and we would recommend the beach to anyone who likes a bit of peace
and quiet.
Facilities are available on the main beach section. The only drawback
my contributors found was the drive to get there, watch out for damage to
your hire car on the long potholed track from the main road!
A report from summer 2002 confirms that naturist activity seemed well tolerated and also recommended the shingly
cove just to the east.
Barefooters who visited in August 2005 got there early in the morning (around
11 am) and were the first nudists on the left part of the beach. In order to
reach that part of the beach they had to walk all the way to some rocks and even
through the sea. For some time we were the only nudists there. Later only one
couple joined us. The man decided to strip off, while the lady sunbathed
topless. We have visited this beach on one more occasion (late in the afternoon)
and this time there were three or four more couples, all naked.
But in June 2006 the beach was closed in order to protect the turtles.
It was due to open on 1 July. Good news for the turtles, despite
disappointing visiting Barefooters.
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Gerakas
On the very most southern tip of Zakynthos Island there is a beach
called Gerakas beach, the famous turtle beach. A long drive down from Zante
(30mins) by car. Before the beach there is car parking, the lazy bar, a coffee
hut and a shop. Walk down the slope onto the beach and turn right. Walk away
from the 'textile' part of the beach. At the end (far right from slope) you
will find a collection of naturists/nudists. Nice shallow sea areas to play.
Lovely scenery with 'spectacular' views of the coastline and cliff lines.
My contributor highly recommends it to everyone but advises visitors to take
food as refreshments are a good 20 mins walk away.
A correspondent
did not rate the CO beaches on this island with the exception of Gerakas.
It looks unhopeful because of the number of beach umbrellas. But walk half
way down the beach (to your left) and pass the commercialised section, and
you're FREE. The two (clothes and not) halves merge seamlessly and there
are no hassles. It's simply lovely. A contributor who visited in May-June
2000 says that there is an unofficial demarcation line where the clothes
area ends and the naturist area begins. No more than 20 folk at any
one time took the opportunity to swim and sunbathe nude, but my contributors
were two of them and it was wonderful. Certainly no hassle from anyone.
It must be said, however, that reports as to the suitability of the beach
vary enormously. I have had several reports from correspondents in
peak season and off season (including during 2002) who were disappointed to find no naturism there at all. However in 2002 more and more people are sending in reports as to its excellence for nudism.
It is clean and the water excellent for swimming and snorkelling. The naturist
contingent are found at both ends of the main beach but to the left of the
main sunshade area offers greater room. There were approx. 20 naturists
on the beach when my correspondents were there and these were undisturbed
apart from a fruit salad seller and volunteers from the Turtle preservation
society who count nests and hand out leaflets. They also ask beach users not
to use sunshades on higher parts of the beach (5m or more from the sea) -
this is to avoid damaging the turtle nests - amazingly this was ignored by
some people. If naturists can't be trusted to be responsible beach users,
who can??!! The Captain agrees ...
A report from June 2001 says the beach was every bit as good as last year
with the far end to the left (beyond the bed chairs and umbrellas) ideal
for nude sunbathing and swimming. At any time during the day this stretch
of beach had no more than about 10 other naturist couples, and more Brits
than last year. No hassle from anyone whatsoever. My correspondent
gave it a rare 100% rating. Another email reports 10 naturist couples
on the left side of the bay in June 2001.
Several reports from 2002 indicate that the beach continues to be wonderful. One correspondents says that after heading left from the main sloped entrance, they fount their first naturist after 2/300 metres. The beach was then largely naturist from thereon i.e. for another 200 metres approx. It varied over the 5 days, but on average there were 10 to 15 groups of naturists there (another report from June 2002 said up to 20 couples). The atmosphere was very friendly with, unusually, a fair few British naturists and they struck up several conversations with both them and our Continental friends. There were, however, 2 or 3 obvious voyeurs over their time there who came up for a fairly blatant gawp.
A report from June 2003 says there was a small nude area on far left of
beach, but mainly textiles. Doesn't seem to be any cut off point.
And in July 2003, Gerakas beach was well populated on the far left hand
side with a good mixture of naturists. Mostly male and female couples,
occasionally lone males, and occasionally lone females.
Barefooters in July 2004 were, for two days, the first to take the plunge
and go naked and, hey presto, within minutes other like-minded souls appeared
to create a naturist section. It really is a lovely spot for both sunbathing
and swimming au naturel - as long as you can put up with the
sightseers!
In June 2004 a Barefoot reporter and his girlfriend spent a blissful 2
weeks on Zakynthos and spent much of their time naked on Gerakas. As you walk
down the path. the far area to the left past the umbrellas was always nude.
There was a tree trunk that seemed to serve as some kind of demarcation line
although some families with kids started earlier some days. Perhaps around 12
couples of all ages with approx. 4 of them as families, and a couple of
singles.
Textiles stroll up the beach, in the main to coat themselves with the local
"healing" mud, but no problems were experienced.
The beach is gently sloping sand (why the turtles nest here) which is
perfect for young families.
A local woman selling great bowls of fresh fruit salad had no problem
serving the naked.
It's not too much of a hike for amenities, but you need to take provisions
for the day. Having said that, Yannis' bar at the top of the path, is
probably the coolest on the island and the perfect place to sit out the
ferocious midday sun The views are stunning and the complete absence of
water sports, due to the turtles, a delight.
In the second week of June 2005 Gerakas was the best beach for nudism.
Mostly about 10-15 couples of British and continental origin, anything
between 20-70 years of age. All were very friendly, no problems at all. It
was at the far left side, after passing sunbeds section (all with clothes,
most females topless), a short free section and after a kind of invisible
borderline (there were some small rocks) there was the nudist section.
Perfect water, clear, fine sand, no rocks, nice temperature. No beach bar,
but very friendly taverna and bar with excellent food within 10 minutes near
parking.
In June 2006, both on the right as on the far end on the left there were
plenty of nudists. There were couples, single men and woman as well as
women in pairs. It was beautiful there. Especially on the left side of
the beach. However another report from the same month says there were
no naturists at all.
This appears to be one of those beaches where naturists (except the most
determined) get squeezed out in peak season. A report from August 2005
said this beach was quite disappointing. The first time there were only a few
nudist. An unofficial demarcation line didn't practically exist so that the
nudists had to go all the way to the end of the beach where the rocks are. It
was impossible to sit under the beach umbrella (the wind was blowing and it
kept on falling down) as well as pretty uncomfortable to lay down because of
the stones. The sea was, though, very nice and clean. The second time my
reporters went there (early in the morning) there were more nudists at first.
But as those who were clothed decided to stay on that part of the beach some
nudists decided either to put on their bathing suits and trunks or to leave.
In the end my contributor and her husband were the only ones at the imaginary
demarcation line. Two young men (not nudist) went for a walk along the beach
and when they saw us naked decided to stay near us. We didn't feel
comfortable so we decided to leave the beach.
One Barefooter, having been several times before out of season, was very
disappointed to find so many over-dressed people on this lovely (albeit
shallow) beach in August 2005. He stripped off anyway towards the far
end, didn't feel totally comfortable, was almost alone in so doing, and could
not persuade his lady partner to follow suit. However, they then went
back underneath the headland (far right as you descend the track) and while
nudity was a lot easier, in fact totally, finding any sand was a problem.
A report from July 2006 confirms this beach is still CO at its southern
end, though there were not many naturists there. However, it is probably the
only CO beach on the island that can easily be reached by public transport -
take the bus from Zakynthos to Vassilikos and an easy walk for the final
kilometre. Be prepared to stand on the bus as it's oversubscribed in the
summer with local people going to Porto Roma!
At the foot of the cliffs at the end of the beach are reserves of (grey) clay, which you can scoop up by the
handful if you dig down under the sand. This can then be smeared all over the body - apparently it is locally revered (and expensive too!) as an all-round cure-all for skin conditions before it is washed off.
One point of note is to only walk down the wet shoreline to avoid ANY
possible conflict with the turtle nests and to look for any disturbed sand
when laying out your towels. The guys do a great job of marking the nests
near the entrance but less so up the beach. In June 2006, apparently no
personal beach parasols were being allowed (possibly because a thoughtless
few were ignoring the rule stating that parasols with spikes were only to be
used close to high tide mark).
Note from the Captain: It is well known that the sea turtles on Zakynthos
are threatened. Tourism brings benefits to the Greek Islands but it can be
ecologically damaging too. A considerable degree of responsibility is required
of those who visit beaches which are also turtle nesting sites. In particular,
any nests should not be disturbed, any turtles should not be "assisted"
to the sea (it is essential to their development that they find their own
way) and the beach should not be visited at night. And as with all beaches,
litter should not be left. True naturists leave only footprints in the sand.
This web page exhorts all those who visit Zakynthos to follow these guidelines.
For more information visit the web site of the
Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece.
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Porto Zoro
A nice long beach with some "private small bays" on the right.
From Zakynthos go towards Gerakas. after about 10km there is a road sign that
points left to Porto Zoro (0.4 km). follow the road all the way. a great long
beach.
Kalamaki
My correspondents
stayed at Kalamaki towards the Laganas side of the town in July 1999. The
beach runs for 3 KM from Kalamaki to Laganas. Either end of the beach near
the two towns the beach is very busy with not too much 'topless' sun bathing.
However if you walk towards the middle of the beach there are a lot fewer
people, and those that are there tend to just walk along the sea edge. The
beach is about 30 m wide but is backed by dunes. Although even the 'Thompsons'
information sheet in the hotel identified the centre of the beach as 'naturist'
my correspondents saw no one fully naked. However they felt quite at ease
going into the dunes, and were undisturbed except for the very occasional
pony trekker (3 times in two weeks), and baring all. The sand is very hot
and seemed to deter any of the walkers from venturing into the dunes.
The down side was having to slip on 'bottoms' when wanting to go for a swim,
although once into the water these could be removed for a 'freer!' swim as
there were very few other swimmers in the water at this part of the beach.
The Captain thinks this all sounds a bit furtive for real pleasure, but
hopefully if more and more naturists go there it will become more and more
readily accepted. Unfortunately, more recent reports talk about "tourist
industry", airport, hotels, crowds, tavernas, pubs etc, etc. And a recent
report pointed pout that Kalamaki beach runs into Laganas beach and at the mid
point between the two beaches you might be able to disrobe, however the constant
walking parade between the two resorts, and the need to stay within three meters
of the sea made this a very uncomfortable exercise. No other fellow naturists
were seen.
However correspondents who visited in June 2001 report that they went to
the left hand side of the main beach were it was was a clothes optional beach.
There were about 6 to 10 couples plus the odd single man there every day
- all nationalities. No problems from textiles or voyeurs. There is a more
secluded bay round the small headland to the left which can be reached by
track behind Cava D'Oro tavern but this looked like it was mainly although
not exclusively male.
A report from a visit in October 2003 says that both Kalamaki and Laganas
beaches where packed with holidaymakers, but walking between the two for about a
mile and the beach was empty except for tourists walking from one to the other.
Only one other couple dared to bare, but if you go into the sand dunes for 25 yards
nobody comes near. My contributors found themselves a little sun trap between
some dwarf pine and spent a couple of pleasant afternoons there never seeing a
soul.
And a Barefoot reporter tells me that in August 2007 he found Kalamaki beach
divided by rocks that come out to the sea. The second beach, on the left
hand dside, easily accessible by swimming or by following a path, is used by
naturists - he rated it 90%.
Crystal beach is an unofficial nudist beach (report from September 2005).
It is easily found by walking to the far end of the main road away from Laganas
end and turning to the sea at the Taxi rank. Nudists used the far end of the
beach away from the Hotel Cristal. The half-way point seems to be the cut off
for reasonable distance from the hotel and as a guide the 'Camel's Hump' on the
cliff is a landmark.
Some people walk past to the next bay but it is not a voyeur route. The water
was crystal clear and still as a mill pond for a number of days but as the
weather and full moon took its toll the water was a little rougher. The beach
was relaxed with the Turtle watch volunteers not worrying about nudists.
The beach appears 'dirty' but most of the debris is natural with dried seaweed
looking like shredded paper and 'sand balls' like Kiwi fruits. The time of year
meant the beach was never overly busy and the nude end reflecting that.
As you enter the beach by Crystal Beach hotel you walk to the left for about 3
mins and you come to the section where everybody is enjoying the sun all over
their bodies. The fruit seller comes and delivers his fruit about 5 times each
day. After speaking to a few Greek people this beach is known by them and this
is where the natives come and bath naked. At this part of the beach you can also
wade past the large rock obstruction and you come to a totally secluded beach
solely used by naturists. The sea is shallow and warm, you can play bat and ball
in the sea without much in the way of people staring (interestingly, my
contributor says his attractive 21-year-old wife usually gets stared at on
"regular" beaches, but was not on the nudist beach - an example of naturist
beach users treating each other with respect that sometimes is lacking
elsewhere).
Banana Beach on the
Vasilikas peninsular is a very long and as the name suggests banana shaped
beach. Can be a bit windy. When visited by my reporters in May 2005 it was very
early in the season so not many people around. My contributors were the only
naturists that they could see but no one battered an eyelid including the man
who collected the money for the sun beds. A nice taverna just up from the beach
is available and the week we were there they were just opening up the beach
bars. So set the trend, folks, and try Banana beach. It was also the only
beach that my contributors were told was naturist by their holiday
representative.
Vrontonero at the extreme eastern end of Laganas bay is almost entirely
naturist. Head for Kalamaki and turn up towards the Cave Bar - past that,
take the left rough road and it will lead right to the beach. There are NO
facilities at all and not many tourists. Many locals go there, a lot of single
guys (some gay) and lots of couples too. Completely relaxed for all.
One Barefooter rated it 100%.
Keri Beach is a collection of stone frontage to the road and offers no
solace for the naturist, if however on reaching the beach you head to the left
around the headland and don't mind scrambling over rocks and suffering while
crawling into the water, wearing protective shoes, and rock softening mats, then
you could strip off. However naturism is not meant as a penal exercise and
therefore not enjoyable. Unfortunately, reports from 2005 suggest that
even this rocky retreat had disappeared.
Porto Kuokla
A nice stone beach. Barefoot reporters who visited in 2004 said when they
were there we found an older naked couple and the rest (which were some distance
away) were not disturbed by their nudity. Even the guy who charged them for the
sun bed and umbrella (3 Euros each) was naked.
To go there you have to follow the road from Zakynthos to Keri. When reaching a
road sign that points left to St. Sostis, Port and Koukla, turn left. After
about 1.6 km turn towards "Magic Land" (a hand made sign) and follow the road.
the end is a hotel with stairs to the beach. Try to reach the beach from the
stairs before.
Aghios Andreas
Very small, beautiful
shingle bay with excellent snorkelling. Hard to find too. The
turning is 100 metres or so north from Mikro Nissi, down a concrete track.
Not much parking, but beach is very small. Get there early and set
the trend, go late and if textiles are there you may feel awkward.
It's definitely a C/O place though, and when my contributor was there everyone
seemed happy. Never more than 10 folk there at a time. This beach
is not marked on the tourist maps. Don't shout about it either, don't want
it spoiling. A report from June 2001 says it was deserted when my correspondent
visited.
Unfortunately this beach seems to be less promising in 2003. A
correspondent got there first to set the trend by going nude, following
the captain's advice, but nobody followed the trend on this beach. Mainly
textile couples with no other nudes at all. Gave in in the end as the
beach is now quite well known and must be a stop off point on way to light
house at top of island. My correspondent also reported the water was
freezing and seems to have an algae that makes the water blurry. The
Captain feels sure that must be a temporary phenomenon.
Another report from July 2003 said there was one German couple nude on
the beach. My reporters went nude and swam and sunbathed. My contributor
says it was his wife's first time nude on a beach and a perfect place to
start. The setting was beautiful, the beach peaceful and clean, the water
perfect.
 Some Barefoot
reporters suggest that some of the best beaches on cannot be reached by land.
It's an idea to hire a boat and explore these, together with the tiny islands
that surround Zakynnthos.
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