Last
updated 16 March 2008
Skiathos
A very popular island with the package tour
trade. Peaceful it is not. It can get very crowded. The arrival
of still more new tour operators in 2000 may change the face of the resort
still further. And the latest addition is apparently large numbers of
4-wheel-drive jeeps and trail bikes that get all over the island even in
previously quiet spots. Banana beach
Banana beach is one of the most famous
naturist beaches in Greece. It is a beautiful, sandy beach; however it is
very busy. It is frequented by both nudists and textiles co-existing peacefully.
Be aware, though, that the number of naturists varies and may reduce in
peak season or even outside the peak (if you are unlucky, as various disappointed contributors
have indicated, you may find few, if any naturists on Banana).
Swimming here is superb. Water sports including parascending are on offer
(and yes, we did see a nude parascender). Food and drink are available. There is
shade at the back of the sand.
Older reports confirmed that Banana
Beach and more especially Small Banana next to it remain the closest thing
to a naturist paradise. However you need to be aware that the percentage of
naturists varies according to season and, sometimes, from week to week.
At its best there used to be a healthy presence of naturists throughout
the length of the beach, peaceful co-existence being the order of the day.
More regularly, however, naturists congregate in the area south of the
rocks to the south (left) end of the beach (often 100% nudist), with
sometimes another group at the northern end. It does get crowded,
though, with many textiles preferring it to its more famous neighbour, Koukanaris.
A report from September 1999 comments that the most important aspect of
Banana Beach is its friendliness - a mixed beach with textiles and nudists
side by side. My correspondent thought it was an ideal "first timers'"
beach where those who may be hesitant can join the textile group to begin
with, and once they see that nudists are actually quite normal people they
can strip off and join in.
One correspondent has this to say about Banana: The beaches are
sheltered and fine gently shelving sand. The main beach becomes
increasingly surrendered to textiles as the season develops. Naturists
retire to the southern end, generally the section beyond the rocky
outcrop, although a few hardy souls mix-it defiantly with the mostly young
textiles.
Tour boats still turn into the bay. A few
stop for a while. Those that just want to show their passengers one of the
'sights' are often greeted by mooning!
The track to Big Banana is clearly
signed. This is from the carpark and bus turn-round at the end of the
Koukounaries road. You effectively do a large 'U' to get up onto the
ridge between Koukounaries and Banana, then walk down through the olive groves.
Takes about 10 to 15 minutes to Big Banana, perhaps 5 to 10 more to Little
Banana.

Going to Banana or Koukounaries by
bus is efficient and cheap (1 Euro one-way from the bus terminal in Skiathos
town). The bus is, however, hopelessly overcrowded and unless you start at
one or other termini you may not get on, let alone get a seat. However,
try using the boat service with departure from the old port at 10.30 and
returning from Banana at 4.30. The trip is about
an hour. On Banana you arrive on the rocks separating Banana and Small Banana
- couldn't be much easier!
Take the bus to the Koukounaries terminus, bus stop
26, walk up the road beside a small kiosk. As it swings to the left, in
about 50 yards, to Abelakia Beach, carry straight on up the hill, at the
top turn right, in the unofficial car park (you can drive or ride this
far), in about 50 yards keep the very smart villa on your right and go
left beside two gates and down a steep path, then it’s straight on to Big
Banana Beach. If you’re heading for Little Banana, you have a choice,
either carry on to Big Banana, turn North (right as you reach the beach)
and scramble over the rocks at the end or, as the path levels out from the
first steep descent, take the first right, keep veering right and do a
“Grand Old Duke of York” over a steep hill and Little Banana is on your
left at the bottom of the descent, this is the safest but more strenuous
option, especially in the heat.
The Captain paid a return visit in June 2001 and can report with
delight that naturism is alive and well and living in Banana. Nudists
could be found everywhere on the beach, with the southern end including
the area before the rocks being predominantly nude, and at the northern
end nudes and textiles were co-existing apparently contentedly. There were
a few nudes in the middle of the beach too.
Other reports from regular visitors including some from summer 2002
confirm the impression that naturists are escaping from their little
corner and spreading out all over the beach.
A less pleasant report reaches me from a regular correspondent who made a body-painting on his wife at Banana and then took photographs of her. It seems this caused offence to some of the (mainly British) naturists, one of whom complained in a rather threatening way that cameras are not allowed. Clearly naturists need to avoid causing offence in a foreign country; however on this account our friend was doing little that should have caused any upset, and has gone away thinking the British are treating Banana as an old fashioned nudist colony. Hey come on, guys, relax! If it's any consolation it is the only report of this kind the Captain has received.
A report from September 2003 said Big banana was generally textile, but there
was more nudity as usual on south end past rocks. My contributor has visited for
the past 3 years, and generally it's almost 100% nude at this time of year, with
a large group of English "regulars". Not as relaxed on some days this year, with
quite a few clothed people present, pushing the nude group to the end of the
beach.
Apparently at the end of 2006 severe thunderstorms washed away part of the
beach mainly at the left-hand end and damaged the bar. By 2007 the bar had
been rebuilt, but there were no sunbeds at the left hand end, making the rest of
the beach rather crowded. It didn't stop Barefoot visitors having a
great time, however.
Visitors in late July and August 2007 found Big Banana textile only, with
lots of drum and bass in the late part of the afternoon. In contrast,
Little banana was great ...
More information and photos from Banana
Beach can be found at Sunny's dedicated
Banana beach web site.
Little Banana/Banana 2/ Spartacus
Some contributors prefer the beach
which is just around the headland called Banana 2 or locally Spartacus. It
has a taverna, a fine sandy beach, and good swimming. It is a super beach,
regularly scoring 90 or even 100% in the many reports the Captain receives. It is more difficult to get
to than Banana because of the climb over the rocks, but a terrific beach.
More often than not this beach is pretty nearly 100% nudist. Lots
of Barefoot contributors describe it as ideal for first-timers. And
a 2007 report, that the beach is friendly, tranquil, relaxed and at least
90% nudist is typical. Recent reports have also commented favourably
on the cold beer and sandwiches available there.
In 2006, 7 Euros would hire you two sunbeds and an umbrella. Everything
was alive and well on LB. The taverna has under gone a facelift this
year, and is a lot more cleaner. It is now built around a caravan chassis.
The sunbeds are now in rows 4 deep. A little to close at times, says
a regular Barefoot reporter, especially when due to high tides the size of
the beach is reduced. Its a good job we are all a friendly and an
uninhibited group of people, he says.
There is also now an allocated area of the beach for those not wanting
to hire a bed. (Perhaps somebody has been reading this page!)
The gates leading down to the beach have now been removed, the road has
been widened and access by vehicles is now possible right down to the
beaches, although 4-wheel-drive vehicles are safer to negotiate the ruts.
The boat taxi to and from Skiathos town, and beaches between, was
operating again in 2006.
It must be said that Little Banana is quite the most crowded Greek
island nudist beach the Captain has visited or heard of. When the
Captain visited there was hardly a scrap of clothing in sight anywhere, but the
beach was very busy with not much room between the sunbeds and umbrellas if
you prefer to sit on a towel or a beach mat. The Captain can fully understand
why some think this beach amounts pretty much to perfection, but that assumes
you don't mind being cheek by - er - cheek with fellow visitors. There was
more space on Big Banana, although that was busy too. Space constraints
may differ depending on the state of the tide. Others have reported that
they find the lack of space and the number of sunbeds off-putting.
In fact, the Captain's Mate has made clear she has no particular desire to
return for this reason.
Various Barefooters have reported that every afternoon a tour boat loaded with tourist
cameras would come as close to the shore at Banana and Banana 2 to let
them see the naturists. We were hoping the boat would sink.
My 1998 correspondent describes Small
Banana as perfect in that it is specifically a nudist beach with very little
obviously textile presence. Some people were complaining that access to
the beach was quite difficult requiring either a sure footed climb around
the rocks from the main Banana Beach or a very steep ascent and then descent
over the headland. I suspect that some of the more elderly would have found
it quite difficult. My contributor recommends on
at least one day staying after everyone else has long since departed for
their evening cocktails, to see the sun going down on what will be an almost
deserted beach, but still hot enough to be naked until the last rays of the
sun have disappeared.

I'm delighted to receive a report from
a couple trying naturism for the first time - on Little Banana they described
four days of total pleasure - a relaxed atmosphere but crowded in the afternoon.
Totally un-intimidating for first timers like them. Wonderful marine
life (fish and the odd octopus).
The beach was very clean and well maintained.
The small taverna was still operating but limited in selection. Good mixture
of nationalities, couples, families and gays all enjoying the sun together,
which is just how it should be.

Good sand and clear water. Small Taverna
that sells cold drinks and has a restricted food menu. Sometimes gets crowded
but never to the point of being uncomfortable. Good mix of couples, families
and gays all getting along well together. There can sometimes be overspill
of textiles from Big Banana, but never a problem. My correspondents
had two weeks of great nude fun in August 2000 and can recommend it to anyone.
At the beginning of September 2000
everyone was nude apart from the very occasional bit of textile. Families
tend to favour the Southern end, the gay communities the North end. My contributors
really enjoyed the friendly atmosphere that existed between the nationalities,
mainly Brits and Dutch, and between the various sexual persuasions. The
beach was easily accessible, and it was immaculately clean.
In summer 2002 it seems four ducks have taken up residence on the
beach!
A report from August 2007 says there was plenty of room and sunbeds, a
great little taverna, clean beach, sand and feed the fish with your
leftover bread! Amazing, says my Barefoot reporter. Why look
for other beaches, which are always hit and miss, when it is all on Little
Banana?
Take the bus to the last stop (number
26) follow the signs to Banana Beach, it's a 10-15 min. walk on a dusty
track over a hill
and could be tough if it's hot. You will first arrive to Banana beach, if
you follow this beach to the left (south), you will find a few nudists.
But it's better to go to the right (north) and walk over the cliffs (not
to difficult) then you are at Little Banana.
A boat leaves the beach each day at
about 5 pm and stops at most of the beaches en route to Skiathos Town.
Some people find this makes a very pleasant end to the day and avoids another
scramble over the rocks!
Rumours have been heard over the years regarding the future of Small
Banana. The Captain hears that there seems to be some substance to these
rumours.
The road to the beach via the olive groves has been obstructed
preventing access by car. Stellios now brings his supplies in by boat for
the beach taverna. Surveyors/Contractors where seen on the beach and in
the car park at the approach to the olive groves examining what looked
like plans of the entire area !! It would appear the groves are
going to be developed for luxury villas and the beach turned into a
Marina. Locals say that the Mayor of Skiathos is against the plans.
Abelakia beach
For those who find the walk
to Banana a bit too difficult, if you follow the hard surface road left,
rather than going straight on towards Banana, and follow the sign to Abelakia
Beach you will be very welcome. The Captain hears reports that this
beach is good for naturists. There is also a nice little taverna there.

My contributors found Abelakia to be a wonderful beach and chanced upon
it by accident because Banana beach had no sunbeds left.
It's situated between Koukounaries and Banana beach. To find it take the
direction for Banana but just a short way up the track you will see a sign
for 'Abelakia beach and snack bar' pointing to the left. Take the track
up a short way and at the top you will come to a disused hotel named
Xenia, from that point, on the left take the steps down to the beach.
At one end of the beach is a snack bar/taverna with WC and has shaded
cover. We found this to be just right for lunch and drinks. This end of
the beach is 100% clothed. At the far end (approximately 300 meters) you
can go nude. When we visited the beach in mid June 2003 the far end was
50% nude and it felt comfortable to be there. Sunbeds and shades can be
hired for 8 Euros and the jolly Greek lady who collected the money did not
bat an eyelid as she went about her business. The beach is gently sloping
fine sand down to the sea, has a pine tree back drop and has rocky
outcrops at each end which are ideal for snorkelling. As extra
entertainment there is a herd of 6 or 7 goats that visit from time to
time and parade along the beach providing amusement to everyone.
Having tried Banana on another occasion my contributors preferred Abelakia
as it was more peaceful and is easier to access. On Banana they felt too
close to the beach bars that were playing drum and bass music for much of
the day.
Hidden Beach
Hidden Beach is a small cove with a taverna at high season. On two of
the days my reporters went they were the only people. All naturist on
their
visits but quite a steep climb down and therefore back up again.

From Koukounaris follow the road from the side of Golden Beach Hotel. Just
before the crest of the hill on the left is a very steep route to Little
Banana, at the crest is a concrete road (right), ignore this as twenty
yards further on is a sand road cut out from the side of the hill. Follow
this for about 1K and you will find the beach. Continue to Mandraki /
Elias which is still mostly nude.
A report from late September 2003 said this beach had
about 6 people on it, all textiles.
Mandraki
Mixed views about this beach, with
the situation evidently changing all the time. It is in a large sandy
bay, between two rocky headlands, it is totally wild, it has safe swimming,
a lovely beach. It now has two beach bars, one by the beach entrance.
A report received in July 2000 suggests that the beach is 70-30 nude, with
nude sectors at both ends.
To get to the beach you need to get
off the bus from Skiathos one stop after the Palace Hotel, (just ask the conductor
for Mandraki!). Follow the track between the villas and follow the signs
to 'Mandraki Beach'. It will take about 20 minutes on a clearly defined path
through the most magnificent pine forest. The walking is flat and well worth
the effort.
A report from July 2000 describes Mandraki
as absolutely superb! Mainly textile but a small gathering of nudes to the
left. No problems encountered. However another report, also from July 2000,
reports not one nude person. The situation is evidently variable.
You will be glad to hear there is now a taverna sited on the beach entrance.
Total peace and tranquillity. Superb swimming and sunbathing.
In August 2000 there was no naturism
on main part but it was accepted at the far right side well away from sunloungers.
A very hard walk to get to Mandraki. A perfect beach for anyone who wants
to get away from the crowds. At the start of September 2000 nudists
were in a small minority. The arrival of pleasure cruisers during
the afternoon increased the proportion of textiles. Later in September Mandraki
had maybe 10 nude couples at the northern end every day, although not more
than about 60 people on the beach at any one time. Good mix of textile and
nude people. very comfortable beach where non-nudists didn't feel 'forced
to strip' as we felt at Banana. Nice walk through the forest to get there
which seemed to discourage most of the 'sunbed' crowd. Umbrella rental at
500 drx per day is the bargain of the holiday.
Barefooters who visited in September 2004 and 2005 say that in 2004 the
main nudist part of the beach was on the northern end with most nudists
parking their motor scooters and cars on the high bluff and scrambling
down the path. In 2005, the nudist area was much more spread out, and most
nudists parked in the sand pine forest parking area and walked down the
deteriorating wooden gangway. Lots of room, no hassles, friendly. Couples,
singles, and gays. A much favoured beach on Skiathos, although quite
windy in the afternoon, and bees were aggressive in 2005.
Koukounaries
There is no nudity on Koukounaries
beach. However, there is a small cove just to the south. To get
there, leave the Koukounaries car park/bus stop area as if going directly
to the sea, but don't follow the boardwalk which heads slightly to the left
towards the main beach area, fork to the right. In amongst a large clump
of fig trees (all naturists know what a fig leaf looks like, I hope!) you
will see a flight of steps leading up. These take you to the top of
the cliff, where a large hotel is now empty and slowly decaying. At
one time, this was the "Skiathos Beach Club", and before that, it may have
been called Hotel Xenia. Walk round the hotel and onto its main terrace.
Near where the terrace bar used to be, you will find more steps leading
down to what my correspondent dubbed "mini-Kouk" (and which will hereinafter
be its name). The beach at the bottom is perhaps 300m long, with a
small cove beyond (easily reached by clambering over rocks) and another back
towards Koukounaries main beach (only accessible from this side by wading
thigh-deep in the sea - you could also use this route to get from the main
beach). Mini-Kouk is a mixture of areas of fine sand, gritty sand and
gravelly pebbles, but again offers excellent safe swimming. The beach is
CO, but I'd hesitate to quote percentages as there were never more than a
dozen or two people on the whole of it, even taking account of the adjacent
coves (I saw no nudity on either, except for nude users of mini-Kouk wandering
round to the further cove). At the steps end, there is a huge pine
tree, offering plenty of shade throughout the day (a bit too much in late
afternoon, as the shadow extends right to the water's edge).
Note that a recent report suggested
that the abandoned hotel was reoccupied in September 1998, resulting in loss
of mini-Kouk (although I suspect that if one went up the far end, or round
into one of the coves beyond the far end - only an easy scramble over rocks
- then one can strip happily and in company). In September 2000 the
percentage of nudists varied from none in 40 to about 15 out of 40. The situation
is clearly variable. It probably depends on someone stripping off and the
rest following.
Elias
Elias is said to be the only other
beach that is still seriously naturist. It is reached either by a long but
pleasant walk through the pine forests leading North from the shops behind
Koukounaries beach or by a dirt road that leads off from an electricity sub-station
about a km before Koukounaries (coming from Skiathos town). There is considerable
confusion over names. Mandraki beach lies to the West of the Gournes headland.
There is now a track to it and a taverna and, although once naturist, is
now all textile - at least in August. On the North coast are two beaches
separated by a headland. They appear to be called Elias and Paradise. Both
are less sheltered and more pebbly than Mandraki. On the western of these
is a rather ramshackle taverna. The eastern end of this beach is generally
nudist, even in high season. The smaller beach, east of the headland, is
easily reached by a path down from the headland above where one branch of
the road ends in a car park. This was uncrowded and entirely nudist. Both
beaches are windy and beach users construct shelters for themselves out of
the abundant driftwood lying on the beach. The main drawback is that the
beaches are dirty.

A report from late summer 1999 describes
30 nude people on Elias beach. Another from July 2000 reported none,
unfortunately. In early October 2003 there were about 20 nudists at the eastern
end. Very relaxed and comfortable.
A report from early September 2003 says the Eastern end of the main
beach (i.e. to the west of the headland) was more lovely than ever. My
contributors went there two days and had calm weather, almost everyone at
this end of beach was nude: idyllic. The beach was clothed at
taverna end where there are sunbeds. The taverna is basic but very
pleasant now, hot food is available with and quite acceptable carafes of
wine for 4 euros. My contributors came to the taverna on a
windy and wet day, it was quite spectacular. The beach to the east
of the headland now has steps down to it and unfortunately looks 100%
textile.
Elias beach can be excellent if you like a quieter environment - at the
eastern end of the beach away from the taverna. Mostly naturists, very
relaxed. Sometimes a lot of seaweed, range of 'happy houses' driftwood
constructed structures available for shade, watch out for the goat which
will eat anything.
A report from June 2007 says Elias was all nude to the right of the
loungers and at the far left too.
There are also some deserted beaches
to be found on Tsougria Island, just to the north of where the boats arrive.
My correspondents took a day trip to the island, and had a magnificent beach
to themselves all day. A report from June 2002 says that my contributors often had the beach to themselves. It is a popular calling point for yachts and other small craft. Get there early and set the agenda!
One contributor reports that he enjoys
walking without any clothes on, and although the island of Skiathos is not
very large, it has an impressive network of unsurfaced roads and donkey tracks
across the island. Many superb walks are described in the 'Blue' guide book
by Harkort, which follow the various tracks across the island, producing many
opportunities for nude walks.
|